Engine question

[92FoxBody]

I'm talking about a 1/4 mile race here. No roll races in my stang! They're dogs on the top end. And they might not have been designed for boost or spray but I know people who have been running a 150 shot for 3+ years... And still have the same head gaskets ALL in the tune. I'm not worried about twisties either...My car can go around a turn, don't ge me wrong. But I'm not going to walk up to a supra owner and tell him I'll rip him a new one... Thanks for the info guys!

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody

I'm talking about a 1/4 mile race here. No roll races in my stang! They're dogs on the top end. And they might not have been designed for boost or spray but I know people who have been running a 150 shot for 3+ years... And still have the same head gaskets ALL in the tune. I'm not worried about twisties either...My car can go around a turn, don't ge me wrong. But I'm not going to walk up to a supra owner and tell him I'll rip him a new one... Thanks for the info guys!

For what it's worth, I agree. I have some experience tuning nitrous in 1000hp+ Mkiv Supras...normally to help spool a large turbo more quickly. Nitrous is nothing more than chemical-based forced induction. If you tune properly for it, including 'net' a/f ratios, and timing adjustments, with proper control systems for the nitrous to include (but not limited to) bottle heater for consistent pressure, a test system to ensure the fuel solenoids are working, rpm limits, WOT switch, progressive/multi-stage control, etc. then nitrous can be just as reliable as any other forced induction system. It's only when folks take short-cuts and (for example) add in a quick-and-dirty 'dry-shot' that problems occur.

[92FoxBody]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

For what it's worth, I agree. I have some experience tuning nitrous in 1000hp+ Mkiv Supras...normally to help spool a large turbo more quickly. Nitrous is nothing more than chemical-based forced induction. If you tune properly for it, including 'net' a/f ratios, and timing adjustments, with proper control systems for the nitrous to include (but not limited to) bottle heater for consistent pressure, a test system to ensure the fuel solenoids are working, rpm limits, WOT switch, progressive/multi-stage control, etc. then nitrous can be just as reliable as any other forced induction system. It's only when folks take short-cuts and (for example) add in a quick-and-dirty 'dry-shot' that problems occur.

Yup yup. I'd be going with a wet shot and I would have a bottle warmer, nitrous progresser etc. It'll kick at 3K and stop at 6,000 (where I shift). The only thing I'm worried about is possible missing a shift and blowing my motor

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody

Yup yup. I'd be going with a wet shot and I would have a bottle warmer, nitrous progresser etc. It'll kick at 3K and stop at 6,000 (where I shift). The only thing I'm worried about is possible missing a shift and blowing my motor

I'm not sure if this will help, but we also add in controls based on boost (forced induction) pressure (psi) within the intake system. Boost pressure drops like a stone if you miss a shift, which causes the spray to stop. I'd bet there are measurable differences in intake vacuum pressure depending upon whether or not your n/a foxbody's engine is under load. If so, you could use this to trigger the spray (eg. via a Hobbes switch).

[92FoxBody]

Thanks for the advice

[92FoxBody]

delete thread please.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody

delete thread please.

Why are you requesting the thread delete?