Ok guys..As you may know I own a mustang (my screename says it..) and I have a few questions about a 1993 supra. This kid I know has a 1993 stickshift N/A supra. It's got gay exhaust,wing,carbon fiber hood etc. It's riced out now but he says he plans on doing a turbo by February. What block is this? Is it the 2JZ? That's what he's telling me. He's going to do a single turbo,stock heads,stock cams and exhaust with 20psi running through it. How likely is this? Thanks guys

He also said he's going to be pushing 600HP. I don't know if he means at the tire or flywheel but either one seems farfetched to me.

Yes if he has a 93 which is the newer style body then it is a 2jzge If he were really goin to push .20psi. Then he would be around the 600hp range. But I wouldn't suggest more then 18psi. Due to the limits of the valvetrain is 600 the blocks stock can handle 900hp believe it or not. its true he would have to upgrade fuel system and fuel management or better yet a standalone EMS. But if he has the pockets for it. I wouldn't race him. Or he will hand your ass to you in your stang.

Valvetrain good for 600hp to the crank..not far fetched at all very possible, all day long. And still reliable..

Seemed farfetched to me because It was an N/A car. I thought it was a different block than the 2jz...Maybe I won't race him after all :crazy2: However...I will be spraying my car next summer. I think I can get him with that ;) Won't his tranny blow at that rate too though? It's a 5 speed.

Blocks are the same there are 2jzge which is na. And a 2jzgte. Same blocks and heads just different bolt ons for the most part slight differences in them. And yes the tranny would need to he upgraded to the turbo trans, the r 154 which is a bullet proof tranny. People run upwards of 1200hp on them with just one upgraded part in the trans.. the tranny he has is only good till about 450hp..

Sorry but even on spray if he has the money to properly build it. He will still handle your 5.0 don't mess with supras they have a kick that most street muscle cars don't have.. not to mention his engine will last 5 times longer then yours on spray.. u would need deep pockets to keep up

Actually not quite. The 2jz-gte has oil squirters, which keep the pistons cooler under boost. Of course, the 2jz-ge also has higher compression pistons (which is worse for forced induction).

The 2jz-gte head is TOTALLY different from the 2jz-ge head (major differences).

Okay. I apologize thank you for correcting me!

So if I add a 150 shot to my car and run high 10's he'll keep up?? I wouldn't think so...Besides, This kid can't drive :D And nitrous does not affect the longevity of your motor. It all depends on the tune ;) But thanks for the info guys. Both of you :D I was looking at supras at first...Then realized a TT would run over 20K...So I grabbed my car for 2,100$ :)

No need to apologize! I'm glad I could help to clarify...

Out of the hole, you have the advantage...especially dollar-for-dollar. However, from a rolling start on the highway a turbo'd mkiv will be very competitive. Also, through the twisties it's likely even an n/a will have the advantage.

Come on man.150 shot on a stock motor and your sayin it won't affect the longevity of your motor? That's like running 25 psi on a stock motor... and even with that u won't hit high tens. But please do it and let us know how it works for ya.. remember your engine wasn't designed to be boosted or sprayed.

I'm talking about a 1/4 mile race here. No roll races in my stang! They're dogs on the top end. And they might not have been designed for boost or spray but I know people who have been running a 150 shot for 3+ years... And still have the same head gaskets ;) ALL in the tune. I'm not worried about twisties either...My car can go around a turn, don't ge me wrong. But I'm not going to walk up to a supra owner and tell him I'll rip him a new one... :D Thanks for the info guys! :D

For what it's worth, I agree. I have some experience tuning nitrous in 1000hp+ Mkiv Supras...normally to help spool a large turbo more quickly. Nitrous is nothing more than chemical-based forced induction. If you tune properly for it, including 'net' a/f ratios, and timing adjustments, with proper control systems for the nitrous to include (but not limited to) bottle heater for consistent pressure, a test system to ensure the fuel solenoids are working, rpm limits, WOT switch, progressive/multi-stage control, etc. then nitrous can be just as reliable as any other forced induction system. It's only when folks take short-cuts and (for example) add in a quick-and-dirty 'dry-shot' that problems occur.

Yup yup. I'd be going with a wet shot and I would have a bottle warmer, nitrous progresser etc. It'll kick at 3K and stop at 6,000 (where I shift). The only thing I'm worried about is possible missing a shift and blowing my motor :mad:

I'm not sure if this will help, but we also add in controls based on boost (forced induction) pressure (psi) within the intake system. Boost pressure drops like a stone if you miss a shift, which causes the spray to stop. I'd bet there are measurable differences in intake vacuum pressure depending upon whether or not your n/a foxbody's engine is under load. If so, you could use this to trigger the spray (eg. via a Hobbes switch).

Thanks for the advice ;)

delete thread please.

Why are you requesting the thread delete?