need help making power 94tt

[warmkop]

got a 20l fuel cell for the car and gone use center return line with the stock intake any advise on the return.Is it better to run a fuel line on each pump to the fuel rail.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by warmkop

got a 20l fuel cell for the car and gone use center return line with the stock intake any advise on the return.Is it better to run a fuel line on each pump to the fuel rail.

It's better to stick with the oem fuel tank if you're only running a 700rwhp turbo. It's better to purchase an entire complete fuel kit than trying to piece-meal one together yourself. And all other things being equal, one line to the rail is better than two...but this isn't the least expensive way to achieve a near-equivalent result in the Mkiv TT.

[warmkop]

Why whould you say the fuel cell isnt a good idee i would like a 1000rwhp supra but dont have the money to spend on one time. im also making my own flywheel.What do you mean with(but this isn't the least expensive way to achieve a near-equivalent result in the supra)thanks for the advise so far

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by warmkop

Why whould you say the fuel cell isnt a good idee...

Gosh, please re-read my post. I did not say that. Here's what I said:

Originally Posted by pwpanas

It's better to stick with the oem fuel tank if you're only running a 700rwhp turbo...

Again, IF you are only running a 700rwhp turbo, you'll most definitely be in the 10s at the drag strip. Most drag strip regulations are totally fine with running the oem fuel tank at those speeds. Also, most Mkiv Supra Turbo modders like to keep their cars as streetable as possible. Having a 10 second completely streetable street car is a 'badge of honor' for many Supra owners. Consider this: getting (for example) a 'rustang' into the 10s may be cheap, but it's pretty much useless for getting your son/daughter to daycare if you mod it that heavily. In other words, why get rid of the oem 17 gallon fuel tank if you don't have to?

On the other hand, I'd never argue against safety. Although at 10 seconds I believe your oem fuel tank is sufficiently safe, go ahead and put that fuel cell into it, since you really never can be 'safe enough':
http://www.fuelsafe.com/white_papers/fuel-cell-facts.html
...and weld a 12-point roll cage in there, a Hans device, and dual parachutes too, while you're at it.

Originally Posted by warmkop

...i would like a 1000rwhp supra but dont have the money to spend on one time....

I wish you had told me this sooner. It's tough for me to provide accurate advice when the goal is unclear.

Originally Posted by warmkop

...im also making my own flywheel....

Awesome - do you have any pictures that you can post? I'm also very interested in why you're doing this...not the least of which reason is that there are so many good, relatively affordable choices out there for one-piece solid steel flywheels and two-piece billet+steel flywheels.

I'm curious: Will your flywheel be able to support multiple clutch disks? You'll never be able to reliably&repeatedly hold 1000rwhp with a single disk clutch, no matter what it's made of.

Originally Posted by warmkop

...What do you mean with(but this isn't the least expensive way to achieve a near-equivalent result in the supra)...

The least expensive way to build a 1000rwhp fuel system (6spd) is to take maximal advantage of the oem fuel line and the oem fuel return line. If you independently analyze the question: "what is better, single or dual fuel lines", you miss the whole point of doing as much as possible with what is already there, and building a system that will meet your needs while being cost-effective. ALL of the off-the-shelf 100%-complete fuel systems have already considered this in their designs. Here's an example:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...93-98_Supra/17

Originally Posted by warmkop

...thanks for the advise so far

Anytime...happy to help.

[warmkop]

Was just asking about the 2fuel lines you never now maybe you guys do things different becuase your 1/4 mile times is much faster then our times in SA.
What i did with the clutch kit is use the old clutch centre piece and made it a 5 puck button and the pressure plate i took in and made the pressure more on it when it brakes i would like to go to multiple disk.On the flywheel im using the same design as the stock flywheel to get more weigth out of the aluminium flywheel,and wil be able to modify the flywheel later for the multiple clutch kit if it doesn't work i wil just buy a clutch kit with flywheel.Wil sent you pics as soon as its finish.
The reason why i want to use the fuel cell is it can take 2 big external pumps with out any hassle with a new feed and return lines, i can also use the stock fuel tank with pump to supply a surge tank and use 2 pumps from the surge to supply.
I like trying to build things my self if it doesnt work i wil safe up and buy a brand name would like it if my supra can do 10s but it wil take time.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by warmkop

Was just asking about the 2fuel lines you never now maybe you guys do things different becuase your 1/4 mile times is much faster then our times in SA.
What i did with the clutch kit is use the old clutch centre piece and made it a 5 puck button and the pressure plate i took in and made the pressure more on it when it brakes i would like to go to multiple disk.On the flywheel im using the same design as the stock flywheel to get more weigth out of the aluminium flywheel,and wil be able to modify the flywheel later for the multiple clutch kit if it doesn't work i wil just buy a clutch kit with flywheel.Wil sent you pics as soon as its finish.
The reason why i want to use the fuel cell is it can take 2 big external pumps with out any hassle with a new feed and return lines, i can also use the stock fuel tank with pump to supply a surge tank and use 2 pumps from the surge to supply.
I like trying to build things my self if it doesnt work i wil safe up and buy a brand name would like it if my supra can do 10s but it wil take time.

Wow, you're really overbuilding that fuel system. The oem fuel system with one oem in-tank denso pump and -5 AN lines (and ~-4AN banjo fittings) can push 550rwhp. All you need for 1000rwhp is one more oem denso pump and a new -6AN line. With two external pumps you can push about 5,000hp worth of fuel (!!!) - why go so big? It'll be REALLY noisy, the pumps will overheat and burn out if you try to drive them in stop-and-go traffic, and all that extra fuel won't do anything at all to help your hp or your 1/4 mile times.

Thank you for describing your clutch & flywheel project. It does sound interesting. Please post pictures, and keep us updated!

The US 1/4 mile times are fast for a number of reasons (6spd)...in no particular order:
1) Street/strip cars use wide and tall BFG drag radials on 16" rear rims and n/a rear brakes. The fender lip is cut and the body panel by the frame is pounded in to make more room for the tire. Low tire pressure is used (eg. 12psi). Be careful though - it's VERY tough/tricky (i.e. potentially dangerous) to drive around at that low tire pressure - gradually reduce it and get used to doing 1/4 mile runs at each pressure level.
2) Drag shocks are used in the rear
3) Front sway bar disconnected
4) Stripped down for weight savings (spare tire, rear seats, sub box, etc)
5) Smaller battery, moved to the right rear
6) Nitrous and 2-step are used to spool turbo
7) Lots of clutch 'feathering' to keep the rear tire slip optimal as the turbo builds power and speed increases
8) More nitrous as speed increases
9) Conversion to full drag slicks and skinnies up front will get you another 1/2 second or more
10) Conversion to a built TH400 will usually get you another 1/2 second (depending somewhat on your 6spd driving skill)

10 seconds is a 'walk in the park' (i.e. quite easy). You don't need to go to anywhere near this extreme to get into the 10s. Mkiv TT BPU autos (with very low mileage on the oem turbos and the oem block) have gotten into the 11s!!! With some NOS, proper tuning, and drag radials you could get into the 10s with the oem twin turbos, the oem fuel injectors, and the oem flywheel. Really!!!

Please, please, please, please - tell us EXACTLY what you're ultimately trying to achieve. Right now I have no idea if *in the end* you want "1000rwhp" -OR- a 10 second car -OR- an 9 second car -OR- ???? The goals you communicated are confusing because you don't need 1000rwhp to get into the 10s!!!??? Before you do anything else (eg. fuel system designs, flywheel machining, turbo buying, etc., etc., etc., etc.) please decide *exactly* what you want to achive and let us know so we can pin-point the minimal, most cost effective ways to modify your Supra and achieve that result!

I'm going to repeat the advice I gave you in my very first post on this thread:
"Please slow down! One step at a time!"
You've been spending time and other resources over-engineering some things you don't need, and you're totally ignoring other areas that are important. My guess is that you're also listening to advice (rather bad advice, imho) from one or more other people. Am I right? I do admire your enthusiasm, drive, and work ethic...but I hate to see you waste your efforts. Let's chat about the things you're thinking of doing before you actually start doing them!

[warmkop]

I would like to do low 10s but like you said step by step must get her in the 12s then 11s and hopefully in the 10s,the top ten place in sport compack in the 6cyl class is SA is 10s and first 7.8s and there is not one supra want to be the first.
First thing is the fuel system lets say 1000whp then there is no change running lean rather to big dont want melted pistons.
Wil send some pics soon.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by warmkop

I would like to do low 10s but like you said step by step must get her in the 12s then 11s and hopefully in the 10s,the top ten place in sport compack in the 6cyl class is SA is 10s and first 7.8s and there is not one supra want to be the first.
First thing is the fuel system lets say 1000whp then there is no change running lean rather to big dont want melted pistons.
Wil send some pics soon.

NO - the "first thing" is that we need to put together a plan, and educate you so that you can stop listening to whomever keeps feeding you this bad advice. Running lean is not the primary cause for melted pistons in an Mkiv Turbo. Again, if your goal is 10s, you do NOT need a 1000rwhp fuel system.

[warmkop]

Okay,what is the plan wat do you suggest

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by warmkop

Okay,what is the plan wat do you suggest

Step 1 - Define your Goal(s):
What do you ultimately want to achieve? A 10 second pass? OR 1000rwhp? Either one of these is an acceptable goal, but there's no need to try to do both at the same time, unless you're sure you want to expend time and money to get both of these.

Please note that 1000rwhp is a more specific (and expensive) goal. Since it's so specific (horsepower only), we could achieve this and your Supra wouldn't necessarily be any faster. For example, without wider rear rims and much better rubber, all 1000rwhp buys you is a slow car that does a great smokeshow. Keep in mind this is just an example to illustrate why the modifications that end up on the plan have to be considered all together at once, as a complete system, in order to keep your Supra safe, reliable, and achieve the goal of the redesign.

In one of your posts, you said your goal is "drag racing and roadrace". Is this still accurate? ...or in another of your posts, you said "I decided to build the supra for the dragstrip". If you're still interested in roadracing, what are your goals for this? Is there a particular track you plan to roadrace on? Keep in mind large turbos and high boost is terrible for roadracing. Drag racing tires are also terrible for roadracing. For roadracing, you don't need more than about 550rwhp VERY reliable, good brake pads, brake ducts, roadrace tires, and good suspension. Many of these modifications are exactly opposite of what you want for drag racing. Building one car that can do both will be quite expensive. ..or are you sure you want to modify your Supra for drag racing at the possible loss of its ability to be roadraced and handle well in cornering? - is that your final decision? I'm just trying to clarify and be completely sure.

I also need to know if you want to be daily-driving this car...or at the very least if you want to take it out on weekends and drive on the street (around town). If not, are you willing to keep your Supra on a trailer in between track events? I don't mind helping you build a track-only trailered Mkiv Supra Turbo, but I have to know that's what we're doing ahead of time. Eg. with a trailered car we can run biased-ply drag slicks with skinnies up front, remove the rear brakes, put in a parachute, and weld the rear axle solid. On car driven on the street, these modifications are impractical.

Are there any other goals? Do you also want to maintain any the Toyota design of having a car that's good for taking corners (roadracing/autocross/etc.)? What about top speed? Do you care if we limit that? All of these are considerations. I need to know as much as possible about everything that you want to do with this car, *before* we start buying parts and turning wrenches.

Whatever the goal(s) is/are please be prepared to commit to them absolutely...and do your best to eliminate all preconceived notions about how to achieve that/those goals with any one techology (eg. single turbo, fuel system, etc.) After we get your goal(s) set in stone, then we can find the least expensive and most reliable way to achieve it/them.
__________________________________________________ _________


Step 2 - Clearly define our starting point for the modifications:

The Mkiv Supra Turbo is a symphony of systems working together - we have to consider the impact of each change on the entire operation of the car - from suspension and weight balance, to traction and cornering, to engine longevity, to braking performance, convenience, maintenance, etc., etc. That's the only way to modify it and have the result be safe and reliable.

Please let me know the complete list of *everything* that has already been done to your Mkiv Supra Turbo. Is it currently driveable? Specifically, what problems are/were you having with the oem twins? To me, we should troubleshoot this problem first so we know we're starting with a good base. Also, 150psi is actually not a "good" compression test result. A new 2jz-gte actually compression tests over 170psi. I'd suggest we do a leakdown test on your engine to verify our starting point.

Has it already been modified to accept the fuel cell? Have you removed the oem fuel system yet? Have you removed the oem clutch yet? Have you installed that 'godspeed t4" 67mm turbo kit yet? ...or have you not purchased a turbo yet? (two of your posts have conflicting information). Have you already installed the "gotech pro x"? etc. What other parts have you purchased that have not been installed yet? I need to know exactly what we have as a starting point. If you have any pictures you can post, that would be good too.

__________________________________________________ ______

Please answer each and every one of these questions, in both sections above, as thoroughly and completely as possible so that I can provide you with accurate advice. Again, my goal is to keep your Supra safe and reliable, and to only recommend modifications that are absolutely necessary for you to achieve your goal(s). This approach will save you time and money, and will allow you to achieve your performance goals as quickly as possible so you can start enjoying your Supra sooner!