Need help making power 94tt
 

Think it will be okay to use the dastek chip its the best we have and it has a supra map unless you object.

Will do the leak down test asap.
Wil have a look on the net if i can find a oem flywheel.
Thanks for the advise can wait to get her running.
What do you think of the play on my flywheel or can i use the old flywheel wat is the worst that wil happen to it wil it break.

The reason your oem flywheel has a lot of play is because the dual-mass springs got worn out. Please don't look for an oem flywheel "on the net". Get a new one that's not already worn out from your Toyota dealer.

Worst case, just weld your oem flywheel solid, and then get it balanced. This would be much better than looking for one that's already mostly worn out.

Do you wire in that Dastek ecu, or does it completely replace the oem ecu? If it completely replaces the oem ecu, you need to sell it. For a 10 second 1/4 mile, you don't need to get rid of the oem ecu...and you'll lose a ton of driveability too. Also, a standalone ecu can be a tuning nightmare...costing you thousands of dollars and weeks and weeks of time to tune and re-tune. The fact that the dastek ecu already has a supra map isn't that important, because a base map is only a starting point. Every Supra is different - something as trivial as a pound or two difference in the base fuel pressure or the brand of fuel injector can completely throw off the fuel map. Stay with the oem ecu if at all possible - seriously.

Need help making power 94tt
 

The dastek is basically the same as the neo you wire it in keeping the oem ecu.sorry dit not mean map.
Il make plan with the flywheel the toyota dealers here dont sell supra spares because its an import.Here is a pick of my supra.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...raturbo1/1.jpg

Thank you for posting the picture! :)

Regarding the dastek, you should start with an all-zeroes (no net change) map, not a "Supra" map, with a straigh-line adjustment for the injector size. That, together with fuel pressure adjustments should be all it takes to get it to run. After that, all of the work is done on the dyno to get it tuned properly.

To my knowledge, no one has welded an oem dual-mass flywheel solid - this, together with a surface-machining to cut off the hot spots, would be a very interesting modification. Please keep me informed as to what you decide to do.

need help making power 94tt
 

Im going to weld it.First have to cut a weld prep and hope the flywheel dont bend to much wil just give it a min skim on the face wil let you know if it works.

Lots of good advice here. Thanks pwpanas.

Good luck with your plans warmkop. I suggest that you take this advice because, it doesn't require you to radically change the car. I believe Supra is rock solid and a legend who's integrity should be kept intact when modifying it. You couldn't find a better car to own/drive/race stock standard or modify. All thanks to Toyota's excellent engineers - Tsuzuki Isao-san and his team did an incredible job :)

Just some fyi for you pwpanas:

As warmkop said, Supra is fully imported here because Toyota didn't send it to SA. No spares or support can be acquired from any Toyo dealer here in SA unfortunately. I'm all for OEM replacement parts as far as possible. Our Supras are JDM spec - USDM is LHD which is not allowed here. UKDM can be bought at quite a premium. JDM Supras are more popular even in Britain. If I remember correctly, JDM Supras have MAP sensors as opposed to export spec's MAF sensors. They also do not have EGR (thank goodness!) like you mentioned before.

Later :wavey:

Need help making power 94tt
 

So the flywheel cant be weld it is mild steel at the back and cast iron in front to much of a hasle.But have another plan wil let you know.

Ok. Thanks for the update!
:bigthumb:

need help
 

So i took the tapet covers off to get sprayed and found that the head is full of (chit) looks like the car was never serviced i can scrape it of with a teaspoon. so i think i must take the enjin out and overall the enjin what do you think.do i use oem bearings or acl bearings and any advise will be appreciated. i can take the head off and clean it out and hope nothing went threw to the bottom end.

To me, this rule applies: "if it ain't broke don't fix it". In theory, I wouldn't disagree with a partial disassembly and cleaning, but this could introduce other issues if not done with extreme care. Imho, definitely do not replace the bearings, unless you know your current bearings have clearly measurable issues.

That said, I wouldn't completely ignore the internal gunk. I'd start by doing a synthetic oil and filter change. After that has run for a couple of thousand miles, use this product:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx