Future owner,few questions :)
 

I'm moving to U.K so that means my dream car will be alot cheaper :D ,then finding a LHD one...
I'm going to buy a (stock) TT Supra,manual transmission of course and make a little rocket from it :bouncy: but i have a few questions:
1)At what maximum mileage should i look so i could have the car at least 2-3 years and use it quite frequently without any major problems?150k km?
2)What's the maximum hp i could achieve on normal fuel(without having to mix it with meth..etc).Or if i run on meth(or smth else?) what does that involve(fuel system,fuel consumption,fuel cost,mixing ?? etc)i'm quite a noob at fuel beside the normal one.
3)How many hp's will a BPU++ supra have and how many will a APU(+) have?
4)What are the best quality / price parts i should look for?(exhaust(full),bov,greedy bcc?etc...)
Thank you very much!
Pwpanas you're help would be godlike!:bow::bow:

Mileage isn't anywhere near as important as maintenance records (to prove proper maintenance). You could get a properly maintained Mkiv with 200,000 miles (not km) on it and still have a decent starting point...or you could get one with 100k km (not miles) that's been poorly maintained and driven abusively and need to replace/refurb all major driveline, suspension, and braking components.
On 93 (R+M)/2 octane pump gas, 350rwhp with the oem twin turbos is a realistic goal. With a large aftermarket turbo setup, you could get to 600rwhp or more on low boost BUT it would be a terrible setup and you wouldn't like it - it would take forever for a huge turbo to spool up (eg. 6000 rpms), and then you'd be limited to low boost that's far below that huge turbo's optimal efficiency range. In short, it's a bad plan to try to get a lot of hp out of a small displacement engine on low octane fuel.
- Your other question about methanol makes more sense, but you don't mix it with the fuel. You need to install a separate meth injection system.
BPU++, on race fuel (or meth) *can* get over 425rwhp (6spd) depending on the state of your oem twin turbos and your oem short block. With APU, horsepower is only limited by the size of your pocketbook, up to about 2000rwhp. (really)
Look for top brand name parts, like JUN, HKS and Top Secret. Domestic suppliers like Sound Performance, MVP Motorsports, Powerhouse, Titan Motorsports, and RPS also provide high quality parts.
Please don't be silly. :crazy: I'm just a regular guy that has read a bit about this car, got one, read some more, and then worked on a number of them. I learned a lot from other Supra owners, and almost every day from fellow forum members. Always glad to help.

I've heard good things about Apexi, Blitz, GReddy and HorsePowerFreaks as well. You could try Megan Racing on your suspension. They're a starting company, but I haven't heard anything displeasing about them.

Can you please elaborate a bit?Where can i find meth to supply the car with and how much does meth cost + what's the consumption ?
Will meth damage the turbo/engine in the long run faster than going only with the pump gas?
Thanx alot ;)

You can read up on it here.http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...Systems//13011
I really don't know much about it, sorry.

Yeah i found how it technically works but i was wondering in how much time does the methanol run out,how much of it contributes to the total fuel used...It just seems impractical to drive 200-300 km to another city with the methanol injection kit(having to fill up the methanol every 100km?)...this is what i don't understand...

L.E:I just found something...that you can put windshield fluid in the injection kit tank because some of them contain almost 40% meth,is that true?
And how are the other supra owners doing it?Do they just buy pure methanol and mix it manually or just buy windshield fluid ?
I'm confused :confused::confused:

I've read a few things and it seems to be about 3 quarts of methanol - 16 gallons of gas, but I don't know where to get methanol in the first place. As for the window washer fluid, some of it does contain about 35% methanol, but I have no idea if it's safe to use in the injection system. I'll keep digging, though.

Unfortunately, I must disagree - at least in part. To begin with, I'd ask that you reread the original question:He asked about "the best"...not merely something "good", or something that you "haven't heard anything displeasing about". iNs0mN1a, I know you also mentioned price, but you put quality first in your question. If you meant it the other way around, please let us know!

Note: I can and do only recommend something I either ran/run personally, or is being used by someone that I trust. I do agree with you about HorsePowerFreaks - I'd put them almost on-par with MVP, and I like the way their web site works - great selection. The rest of them however, are clearly second tier at best and with the case of Megan Racing, to me, third tier or worse. For example, take a look at Megan's track shocks - there isn't even a setup for the Mkiv Supra!!! I haven't heard of anyone of note running Megan for roadracing an Mkiv (and winning with them), so for me personally I have to advise iNs0mN1a to stay away from them. For suspension, I can't even call HKS "the best"...to get "the best" suspension, you'll have to go with Moton, or Penske. Unfortunately, Ohlin doesn't make a race-spec shock for the Mkiv. Personally I run GC/ADs, but wish I could afford some Motons or Penskes. :(

Although GReddy's 4-row intercooler is fine, their turbo kits have a terrible wastegate design, and utilize ancient 1980s technology turbos (eg. T88). How can you compare this to HKS, which has updated their T04R turbo kit to use the much newer T04Z? Also, GReddy has already stopped making and selling many of their parts for the Mkiv Supra (eg. Their GReddy SP exhaust used to be the best quiet street exhaust for the Mkiv, before it was discontinued). The one exception of course (in HKS vs. GReddy) is the GReddy BCC, which is a critical component for a US-spec Mkiv at BPU level. A'PEXi's electronics are okay, but again, to me, they're not on the same level as HKS. Blitz does make a good blowoff valve, but almost no one runs their turbo kit for the Mkiv Supra.

Like I said above, if you want "the best", stick with top brand name parts, like JUN, HKS and Top Secret. Domestic suppliers like Sound Performance, MVP Motorsports, Powerhouse, RPS, Titan Motorsports, ARD, Boost Logic, and HPF also provide high quality parts. All just mho. Please post if you disagree with these opinions. :)

With a separate meth injection system you can make at least 650rwhp (6spd) on 93 (r+m)/2 pump gas.

You can get meth direct from gasoline distributors - the same place you get pure race fuel in barrels. You can also get 1-gallon tin containers of denatured alcohol from home supply stores that work in alcohol+water injection systems too.

Omg, please don't use windshield washer fluid! It contains soap - something you definitely don't want running through your alcohol injection pump. Also, (in case you were wondering) don't ask about the pints of octane booster off-the-shelf in auto parts stores because they don't work either - if you read the label carefully, it talks about raising the octane by "points". When you see "raise octane by one point" think 93->93.1, NOT 93->94.

The alcohol injection only sprays when you're boosting. If you drive your car like a granny, your alcohol supply will last forever.
Here are your (proven) choices:

1. Run enough a high enough octane of race fuel to match your boost level. Note you can mix high octane race fuel with pump gas for mid-level horsepower needs.
   This is by far the most popular choice for high horsepower Mkivs. Every Mkiv owner I know that runs pure race fuel 100% of the time (and doesn't formally compete with it in serious drag racing) has never blown their engine.
2. Invest in an alcohol injection kit (again, alcohol is easy to find!). Don't plan on more than about 650rwhp (6spd) with this option, since the pump flow and nozzle sizes are limited.
3. Run E85 (this choice is growing in popularity, as more and more gas stations are offering this fuel). It's a very good option since E85 is much less expensive than race fuel (its not much more, mile-for-mile, than pump gas). On the downside, your full tank of fuel gets you half as far.
4. Run 93 octane fuel and never boost more than 16psi. This choice is your easiest one, of course.
5. You actually can mix a few gallons of pure Toluene into your 93 octane pump gas for a small octane boost.
6. Propane injection will probably work too, although I don't have personal experience using it in an Mkiv Supra.

All other roads lead to melted pistons. Don't say you weren't warned. Lots of other folks will tell you this and that and whatever is okay. If you follow my advice, and the components are expertly installed, well maintained, and regularly tested, you'll never need to buy a new shortblock. If anyone offers you less conservative advice, I advise you to ask them if they'll pay for your new shortblock when it doesn't work!

I'm aware that you don't mix the methanol and the gas. That just seems to be about the amount of meth that people go through in relation to gallons of gasoline, but as you've said, it doesn't get used unless you're boosting. As for the part brands... I was just trying to make some suggestions. I hadn't heard anything about GReddy canceling their MKIV parts prior to this and I hadn't really noticed about the out-dated turbos, but I'll certainly admit defeat there. For Megan, they are sub-par, but they're cheap(Just trying to cover all roads) With Apexi... I've met a few people that swear by them, but I'd go with HKS over them any day. It's really all up to preference and how much money you've got to work with :) - Now I'm gonna go read up on Moton and Penske suspension to see if I might be interested in some for my MKIII if they even make it.

Firstly,thank you for taking you're time to respond in such a manner:bigthumb:
Secondly,I don't plan to take my supra higher than 700 hp(~600 rwhp).What would you recommand for this? w/m inj kit or alcohol inj kit ?
The windshield washer fluid is supposed to have ~60% water / 40% methanol...

Glad to help.

By "w/m inj kit" I assume you mean a water/methanol injection kit. Methanol is one type of alcohol. So a "w/m inj kit" is the same thing as an "alcohol inj kit".

For 600rwhp I recommend pure 100 (motor) octane unleaded race fuel. A "w/m inj kit" should work fine too, as long as it's properly installed, well maintained, and regularly tested. If the turbo you choose is capable of more than 600rwhp (which I hope it is not), your boost control will have to be rock-solid.

Again, you don't want the soap and the bug-melting chemicals in windshield washer fluid running through your w/m inj pump or your engine.

I recommend 90% alcohol/methanol, and 10% water for your optimal horsepower & octane boost. 60% water & 40% alcohol is cheaper, of course and perhaps slightly higher in pure octane boost. However, octane does not = horsepower. You loose too many BTUs of heat with 60% water...and therefore too much horsepower is lost along with that reduction in heat! 60/40 might be fine for some ricer honduh or 'billy rustang owner (no offense) trying to put a hitch in his giddyap, but for an Mkiv Supra Turbo running 25psi+ of boost, it just isn't anywhere near optimal.

Wait,this makes me confused:wtc:...so if i run JUST race fuel,can i drive without the water/methanol injection kit(is it no longer necessary?
By race fuel what do you mean?Pure race fuel(found near the tracks) or fuel with high-octane number?

Yes, yes, and yes.

For example, refer to "MotorSport 109™":
http://vpracingfuels.wb.gs/page46966...ection15555665

Here's a local supplier of race fuel in Romania:
http://www.autosolution.ro/news.php

...and one in the UK:
http://trackstuff.co.uk/VP%20MotorSport%20109.htm

If i understand correctly...i have to buy gas every time from the internet.So it's waaaay more easier to put in a w/m inj kit and just use pump gas + buy just the alcohol(methanol) needed...right?:confused:

That's a complex question, very dependent upon where you live. Many tuning shops also carry race fuel. As you said, you can find it at race tracks, and of course race fuel distributor locations. When you move to the UK, why not consider your fuel supply when you pick the place to live?

Don't forget you only need high octane fuel when you mash the accelerator pedal to the floor. Whenever you drive like a granny, pump gas is just fine.

I'm not trying to talk you out of alcohol injection. However, it would be another completely new system on the car, and a therefore a new potential failure point. Running race fuel avoids this complexity. Lastly, alcohol injection has a max horsepower limit; if you quickly outgrow 600rwhp, that alcohol injection system could turn out to be a waste of time and money.

Yup,that's a very good idea...I just wanted to gather all the info and just make a total of $ I need to invest beside the car itself,this is why one of my questions was how many hp's will a bpu++(+) / apu have,so i can know the parts i will be needing and their prices :D
Oh and i'm not buying a supra to drive it like a granny :rofl:

True, but if you drive it aggressively all the time then gas mileage will suck and it will cost you a fortune in traffic tickets.

Yes i know,you're right...but i wasn't suggesting aggressively,but just w00ting once in a while(of course,every time i drive).
So that means w/m inj kit would be better,right? Cause if i have low octane fuel in the tank and i want to drive it fast for a few minutes,that would mean high boost(high boost,low octane fuel =>not friends :rofl: )

Why w00t on your way to work stuck in rush hour traffic? You could run w00tless weekdays and run race fuel on the weekends. Either way, I think you have all of the information you need to make your own decision on this topic. :)

id just like to pop my head in here, im new to the supra scene, but i know how strong the supra engine/driveline is, and all that, and in my reading i have read that it is possible, through upgrading the exhaust, intake, and engine management, that you can acheive 450-500 hp, is it as simple as it sounds, and more importantly, possible? im mostly concerned about this methanol injection thing, if i want to run a bit bigger horsepower figures i dont want to have to run different feul, id prefer just using pump gas..

Do you mean hp or rwhp?

Either way, yes, it is that simple. Raising horsepower in a turbocharged vehicle is typically not that difficult. The Mkiv Supra Turbo (TT) makes it even easier since almost all of its components are over-spec'd.

Not sure what you mean about a methanol injection concern. Alcohol / water injection is the only practical way to run high horsepower with a relatively small displacement engine (3L) and pump gas. It's great to want everything and then "prefer" to get it all for nothing but unfortunately cars (and life) just don't work that way. The old saying goes: You gotta pay to play, baby!

So, in general* it's one of the following options if you stick with the oem ecu: 1) race fuel at $10-$30/gallon, or 2) methanol injection, 3) ~30% Toluene+MMO ...or be 4) be happy with about 350rwhp max. With an aftermarket ecu you can squeeze a bit more out by playing with the timing curve (be careful!).

* Caveat/disclaimer: There always is one, isn't there? It is possible (but not practical) to get more rwhp on pump gas with a huge turbo. The problems are that 1) the big turbo won't spool till about 6k rpms, and 2) you'll still need to limit boost to about 16psi. Since huge turbos are designed to be efficient at 35psi+, you get the worst of both worlds - terrible turbo lag together with running a huge turbo far below it's ideal boost level. This is such a goofy corner-case that it's barely worth mentioning...I only included it here for completeness of response.

ok, so it is simple to get the 500hp out of the 2jzgte, but how much can i squeeze out of it without running the alcohol injection? i know i would need to keep it under 16psi before having to run special feul.. so with maybe98? octane pump feul, how much power can i get?

also i just want some pointers on difference between hp, and rwhp. i know that rwhp stands for rear-wheel-horse-power, but i just want to know the main differences. thanks.

1) What is the MOTOR octane of that "98 octane pump fuel"? This is critical - we need to find this out or I can't tell you how much boost you can run with it. Most likely that 98 is RESEARCH octane, not MOTOR octane.
2) If you don't like alcohol injection, what about water injection?

rwhp is your horsepower at the rear tires. most times when simple "hp" (horsepower) is referred to - like in new car ads - they're talking about horsepower at the crankshaft - before any drive line loss. Also, automatic transmissions have a larger driveline loss than standard transmissions. For a standard transmission, the loss is about 15%. For an auto, it depends on a lot of things, like the stall of the torque converter...but that's usually about 20% total drive line loss and it can be up to 30% loss.

thanks for clarifying that for me about rwhp. ive read about power loss from using a auto, but wasnt sure of figures. as for the question about hp, answer it on the thread that i made for asking the question.

pwpanas, i've sent you a p.m but it doesn't show in "sent" folder, why is that? Did you get anything from me?

I got your PMs.