Hey, new suspension & boost controller options,

[Codyjamesuno]

Ok, I have not been on here for sometime but I got a few questions to ask you guys. I had to replace my eibach springs they went bad on my car so I put
H & R and they seem to ride awesome! The eibach springs came with my car but were not on it when I purchased it, so I had them put on, drove it for 6 months then noticed they were not performing well & were sitting unequal in height. Lessen learned the hard way I guess.

Next issue I have is with my boost controller. I have the Greddy PRofec-Bspec. It has a low and a high setting on it as well as a balance nob. My question is to you, is that something I can adjust myself or something I need to have adjusted professionally? My boost gauge reads in bar, not psi so I have a conversion chat to reference. What is the safest level of boost I can run on my TT supra? I have the HKS exhaust, fuel cut, boost controller, turbo timer, cam gears, 3 inch pipe & greddy side mount intercooler & intake, ext. Whats the magic number I should look for, 12 lbs, 18 lbs? Less or more? When I got the car the settings were pretty much set on the middle of both the low and high boost settings. I run premium fuel 91 or better all the time.

Thanks for any help I can get guys, you are the experts here , not me.

Cody

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

Ok, I have not been on here for sometime but I got a few questions to ask you guys. I had to replace my eibach springs they went bad on my car. so I put
H & R and they seem to ride awesome! The eibach springs came with my car but were not on it when I purchased it, so I had them put on, drove it for 6 months then noticed they were not performing well & were sitting unequal in height. Lessen learned the hard way I guess...

Eibach springs do sit lower in the rear than the front. They didn't go bad - that's completely normal for them.
Regardless, thank you for the information about H&R springs. Glad you find them to be workable for your application.

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

...Next issue I have is with my boost controller. I have the Greddy PRofec-Bspec. It has a low and a high setting on it as well as a balance nob. My question is to you, is that something I can adjust myself or something I need to have adjusted professionally?
...

You can adjust it yourself, as long as you're sure that you're always running a sufficient octane of fuel in your tank to match whatever boost setting you put into the boost controller.

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

...
My boost gauge reads in bar, not psi so I have a conversion chat to reference. What is the safest level of boost I can run on my TT supra?
...

That depends entirely upon the exact fuel that you're running in the tank. With USA-spec 93 octane (calculated using (R+M)/2), you can safely run 16psi with the oem ecu's ignition timing curve. Anything more than that and your 2jz-gte's compression numbers will deteriorate over time. Anyone who tells you differently should offer to replace the engine if you follow their advice and the engine gets damaged.

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

...
I have the HKS exhaust, fuel cut, boost controller, turbo timer, cam gears, 3 inch pipe & greddy side mount intercooler & intake, ext. Whats the magic number I should look for, 12 lbs, 18 lbs? Less or more? When I got the car the settings were pretty much set on the middle of both the low and high boost settings. I run premium fuel 91 or better all the time.
...

With 91 octane fuel, it's probably 15psi or less. I'd recommend a 1.0 bar limit (~14.5psi)

Have you considered methanol injection?

[Codyjamesuno]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Eibach springs do sit lower in the rear than the front. They didn't go bad - that's completely normal for them.
Regardless, thank you for the information about H&R springs. Glad you find them to be workable for your application.You can adjust it yourself, as long as you're sure that you're always running a sufficient octane of fuel in your tank to match whatever boost setting you put into the boost controller.That depends entirely upon the exact fuel that you're running in the tank. With USA-spec 93 octane (calculated using (R+M)/2), you can safely run 16psi with the oem ecu's ignition timing curve. Anything more than that and your 2jz-gte's compression numbers will deteriorate over time. Anyone who tells you differently should offer to replace the engine if you follow their advice and the engine gets damaged.With 91 octane fuel, it's probably 15psi or less. I'd recommend a 1.0 bar limit (~14.5psi)

Have you considered methanol injection?

No they went bad, i'm not talking about the difference in the front and rear, i am talking about the height of the car, in the front, the car sat over a 1/2 inch higher on the passenger side of the car then on the drivers side, the springs went bad, they were 17 years old i'm guessing they were bad when I put them on thats why they were not on the car when I purchased it. The new H & R seem to ride much nicer then my old springs. Thanks for the boost help, thats pretty much what I was thinking just figured Id ask.

im guessing the methonal injection is pretty pricey, i did consider it on my bike, but never went through with it, you recommend it to be safe?

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

...Thanks for the boost help, thats pretty much what I was thinking just figured Id ask.

im guessing the methonal injection is pretty pricey, i did consider it on my bike, but never went through with it, you recommend it to be safe?

Too bad you're stuck with 91 octane.

Meth injection is like anything - if you get a high quality kit, and you get it installed by professionals OR you really research and take your time...and if you get it tuned properly, it *can* be safe. However, if you get the cheapest kit out there, get 'bubba to install it in his driveway, and do no tuning...you can be pretty much guaranteed it won't be safe and your engine will get damaged even quicker because you'll be running more boost, assuming the meth kit will work. Make sense?

[Codyjamesuno]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Too bad you're stuck with 91 octane.

Meth injection is like anything - if you get a high quality kit, and you get it installed by professionals OR you really research and take your time...and if you get it tuned properly, it *can* be safe. However, if you get the cheapest kit out there, get 'bubba to install it in his driveway, and do no tuning...you can be pretty much guaranteed it won't be safe and your engine will get damaged even quicker because you'll be running more boost, assuming the meth kit will work. Make sense?

yeah i think the highest we have here is 92 at a bp, where would be the best bet to purchase a high quality kit? I have a great installer who I would use,

thanks

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

yeah i think the highest we have here is 92 at a bp, where would be the best bet to purchase a high quality kit? I have a great installer who I would use,

thanks

Here's an example of a good quality kit:
http://www.snowperformance.net/stage...st-cooler.html

[Codyjamesuno]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Too bad you're stuck with 91 octane.

Meth injection is like anything - if you get a high quality kit, and you get it installed by professionals OR you really research and take your time...and if you get it tuned properly, it *can* be safe. However, if you get the cheapest kit out there, get 'bubba to install it in his driveway, and do no tuning...you can be pretty much guaranteed it won't be safe and your engine will get damaged even quicker because you'll be running more boost, assuming the meth kit will work. Make sense?

they do sell unleded 110 down the street but its $$$!

[Codyjamesuno]

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

Ok, I have not been on here for sometime but I got a few questions to ask you guys. I had to replace my eibach springs they went bad on my car so I put
H & R and they seem to ride awesome! The eibach springs came with my car but were not on it when I purchased it, so I had them put on, drove it for 6 months then noticed they were not performing well & were sitting unequal in height. Lessen learned the hard way I guess.

Cody

Ok, somebody please help me, give me your opinions. If you read my original post about you'll know that my supra ended up needing new springs as it was sitting uneven exspecially in the front of the car. I took it to my local shop and was told the springs were bad & the bump stops were not cut right, bad eibach springs was the general conclusion. So I had them replaced with H & R, and the problem was solved. So now about a month later, I'm driving my car & notice it seems to be riding rough again, so I get out and look and sure enough, the drivers side from tire gap between the wheel and the fender dropped , over a 1/2 inch , over a half inch less in gap between the passenger side. Guys what could be causing this? I know on tuesday i'm going right back to the shop to bitch as this problem obviously wasn't fixed the first time, but why would it take a month for the car to settle down in height? Here are two pictures i took of both front wheels. The first picture is of the drivers side wheel gap, the other is the passenger side gap,


Cody

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Codyjamesuno

Ok, somebody please help me, give me your opinions. If you read my original post about you'll know that my supra ended up needing new springs as it was sitting uneven exspecially in the front of the car. I took it to my local shop and was told the springs were bad & the bump stops were not cut right, bad eibach springs was the general conclusion. So I had them replaced with H & R, and the problem was solved. So now about a month later, I'm driving my car & notice it seems to be riding rough again, so I get out and look and sure enough, the drivers side from tire gap between the wheel and the fender dropped , over a 1/2 inch , over a half inch less in gap between the passenger side. Guys what could be causing this? I know on tuesday i'm going right back to the shop to bitch as this problem obviously wasn't fixed the first time, but why would it take a month for the car to settle down in height? Here are two pictures i took of both front wheels. The first picture is of the drivers side wheel gap, the other is the passenger side gap,

Cody

It was:
1) Nothing to do with the bump stops. What do they mean "were not cut right"? If they're talking about cut...from the factory..., then they're either ignorant of or inappropriately implying some sort of poor quality control at Toyota. Insanity. Within a fraction of a millimeter, every Mkiv Supra Turbo bump stop is exactly the same. However, if they're suggesting that someone modified the oem bump stops, firstly that would be silly and secondly bump stops only come into effect when you hit bumps and the suspension bottoms or tops out - i.e. not when the car is just sitting there on a flat surface. Because of this I can't help but thinking the shop you're taking the car to isn't qualified to do the work.
2) Most likely the problem has to do with how the suspension was torqued after the install. Anyone working one the car MUST follow the steps in the TSRM to adjust the suspension. This involves snugging the bolts, putting on the wheels taking the car off the lift, bouncing it up and down, putting it back up on the lift, and then loosening and re-tightening the bolts. Again, to make this easy, make sure anyone working on your Supra has the TSRM. It's that simple.
3) There is a small chance the frame on your Supra is slightly bent/twisted. How well do you know your Supra's vehicle history? If you're 100%+++++ sure that the suspension bolts were tightened, torqued and adjusted perfectly according to the steps in the TSRM then you may want to take it to a frame shop to get laser-checked.

[Codyjamesuno]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

It was:
1) Nothing to do with the bump stops. What do they mean "were not cut right"? If they're talking about cut...from the factory..., then they're either ignorant of or inappropriately implying some sort of poor quality control at Toyota. Insanity. Within a fraction of a millimeter, every Mkiv Supra Turbo bump stop is exactly the same. However, if they're suggesting that someone modified the oem bump stops, firstly that would be silly and secondly bump stops only come into effect when you hit bumps and the suspension bottoms or tops out - i.e. not when the car is just sitting there on a flat surface. Because of this I can't help but thinking the shop you're taking the car to isn't qualified to do the work.
2) Most likely the problem has to do with how the suspension was torqued after the install. Anyone working one the car MUST follow the steps in the TSRM to adjust the suspension. This involves snugging the bolts, putting on the wheels taking the car off the lift, bouncing it up and down, putting it back up on the lift, and then loosening and re-tightening the bolts. Again, to make this easy, make sure anyone working on your Supra has the TSRM. It's that simple.
3) There is a small chance the frame on your Supra is slightly bent/twisted. How well do you know your Supra's vehicle history? If you're 100%+++++ sure that the suspension bolts were tightened, torqued and adjusted perfectly according to the steps in the TSRM then you may want to take it to a frame shop to get laser-checked.

As for the history , it only had two owners before me & according to car fax it was never involved in a wreck. TSRM, guessing that means the Supra Repair Manual? I trust the shop I take it to as ive known them for years & they do allot of work with newer supra's & imports. I will talk to them tuesday & mention what you have told me and report back to you what he says.

Thanks