Intermittent miss up to 2k and idle when warm NA-T

[pwpanas]

I agree with your plan to temporarily put it back to n/a to troubleshoot.

As a test, could you remove the turbo intake and put the oem distributor cap back on? As long as you don't run the car in a dust storm and you don't have frozen chickens falling from the sky nearby, running the turbo wide open to atmosphere isn't all that risky.

Lastly, have you *pressurized* the intake yet? You do n/a vacuum testing with spray (or smoke), but pressurizing the intake (with an air compressor, for example) is what's needed for a turbocharged intake system. It should be able to hold about 50psi cold. Clamp your air hose adapter in there tight or it will turn into a cannon. (amhik)

[Travis89Turbo]

Well after driving the car today I finally got a check engine light- Code 26= running rich. So Im leanin towards possibly a fuel regulator. Checking the fuel pressure on the GE is hell due to all the egr and related parts being above the feed line. I looked around for another port before the regulator but see nowhere else to go other then the banjo on the fuel sender but that is far from accurate.

I bypassed the turbo system and hooked up the afm directly to the intake mani with all vac lines hooked up. Fired it up, but still idled badly so I went back to find a vac line from the Bov still un capped. Oops! Then my great friend of mine without asking me unhooked my battery clearing the code so the cel went out. Not what I wanted to do. I wanted to see if the light would go out on its own.

Anyways, fired it up and it running rich right now with the cel cleared.

Afrs now at idle are 13.0-13.8 and at 1500 rpm no load afrs go to 11.8-12.5. And runs smooth no hesitation at all. But I'm sure as soon as I went down the road it would start droppin off lean again.

Any ideas greatly appreciated! The current set up jerry rig intake I made does not allow me to close the hood at all so I'm working on another setup to drive with. But those afr do not sound right to me.

I pulled the 4 runner cap off today to look at the spark trace on the cap poles, everything looked good. I am lookin in to getting a fuel pressure gauge if that checks out I will be doin a compression test aswell as leak down test. Really hoping there is a fuel problem thou!

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Well after driving the car today I finally got a check engine light- Code 26= running rich. So Im leanin towards possibly a fuel regulator. Checking the fuel pressure on the GE is hell due to all the egr and related parts being above the feed line. I looked around for another port before the regulator but see nowhere else to go other then the banjo on the fuel sender but that is far from accurate.
...

What about an inline T sensor adapater right after the fuel filter? That's where we splice in on the MKIV TT...

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

...I bypassed the turbo system and hooked up the afm directly to the intake mani with all vac lines hooked up. Fired it up, but still idled badly so I went back to find a vac line from the Bov still un capped....

Speaking of BOV do you have the output of the BOV routed to atmosphere or is it routed back into the intake system? If the main BOV itself is leaking, that could explain your rich condition (since the air ejected through the BOV has already been metered by the MAF)...

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

...
Oops! Then my great friend of mine without asking me unhooked my battery clearing the code so the cel went out. Not what I wanted to do. I wanted to see if the light would go out on its own.

Anyways, fired it up and it running rich right now with the cel cleared.

Afrs now at idle are 13.0-13.8 and at 1500 rpm no load afrs go to 11.8-12.5. And runs smooth no hesitation at all. But I'm sure as soon as I went down the road it would start droppin off lean again.

Any ideas greatly appreciated! The current set up jerry rig intake I made does not allow me to close the hood at all so I'm working on another setup to drive with. But those afr do not sound right to me.
...

Agreed.

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

...I pulled the 4 runner cap off today to look at the spark trace on the cap poles, everything looked good. I am lookin in to getting a fuel pressure gauge if that checks out I will be doin a compression test aswell as leak down test. Really hoping there is a fuel problem thou!

Are you still planning to replace the oem distributor cap, just as a test?

Also, a short run with no hood shouldn't be too big of an issue, right?

[Travis89Turbo]

Update!

I bought a new Mac tools pro fuel pressure test kit and it had a banjo bolt adapter that I hooked into the top of the fuel filter...

Results- with Vac line disconnected and plugged 51psi. Factory spec 38-44

With vac line hooked up 42psi. Factory spec 28-34

1500 rpm 55psi with vac line hooked up. That is out of factory specs so I will be replacing it.

I apologize for not adding the info about the stock distr cap. I reinstalled the original with no change. Although I did have to change plug wires back to OEM as well. So I put the 4 runner stuff back on and doubled checked that the timing is at 10btdc.

Is it possible that the added pressure from boost could damage the factory fuel regulator?? Should I stick with OEM or go to an aftermarket in your opinion.

My BOV is an HKS SSQ that I bought a recirculation nipple for so it has been blowing back into the intake post MAF, pre turbo!

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Update!

I bought a new Mac tools pro fuel pressure test kit and it had a banjo bolt adapter that I hooked into the top of the fuel filter...

Results- with Vac line disconnected and plugged 51psi. Factory spec 38-44

With vac line hooked up 42psi. Factory spec 28-34

1500 rpm 55psi with vac line hooked up. That is out of factory specs so I will be replacing it.

I apologize for not adding the info about the stock distr cap. I reinstalled the original with no change. Although I did have to change plug wires back to OEM as well. So I put the 4 runner stuff back on and doubled checked that the timing is at 10btdc.

Is it possible that the added pressure from boost could damage the factory fuel regulator?? Should I stick with OEM or go to an aftermarket in your opinion.

My BOV is an HKS SSQ that I bought a recirculation nipple for so it has been blowing back into the intake post MAF, pre turbo!

Regarding the FPR, I'd try with one from an Mkiv TT if it's a different part number and if it fits. You could even try a used one (yours is the first I've heard of one that has problems). Just a thought - do you think your fuel return line could be blocked/kinked/crimped in any way - that would raise fuel pressure regardless of how well your FPR works. You could always go to an aftermarket FPR (a lot more expensive, especially after the adapters, braided hose, etc.) if a different oem fpr doesn't do the trick.

To bad you don't have a fuel controller (eg. A'PEXi AFC) - you could just dial down the fuel at idle based on the higher fuel pressure, then the additional fuel would be available under boost. Capiche?

[Travis89Turbo]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

I hope you don't mind me tooting my own horn a bit, but I did suggest you should check the fuel pressure before replacing the fuel pump.

Regarding the FPR, I'd try with one from an Mkiv TT if it's a different part number and if it fits. You could even try a used one (yours is the first I've heard of one that has problems). Just a thought - do you think your fuel return line could be blocked/kinked/crimped in any way - that would raise fuel pressure regardless of how well your FPR works. You could always go to an aftermarket FPR (a lot more expensive, especially after the adapters, braided hose, etc.) if a different oem fpr doesn't do the trick.

To bad you don't have a fuel controller (eg. A'PEXi AFC) - you could just dial down the fuel at idle based on the higher fuel pressure, then the additional fuel would be available under boost. Capiche?

I actually have a friend sellin a AEM ems v2 for the ge for $1000 with COP setup and a gm 3 bar map. I've been consodering but I have spent a lot of money this year! Buying a 32ft boat didn't help either.

Like you I have never had a regulator go out on me and the Walbro 255 is cheap insurance. Not to mention was way cheaper then the fuel press. Kit I bought!

I was just lookin into the gte regulators from what I have read they are interchangeable. I will be ordering one in the next few minutes. Thanks for your help Phil!

I'll keep ya posted if this resolves my issue for good!

[Travis89Turbo]

Okay. I installed an aftermarket Aeromotive regulator with steel braided lines set within factory specs.

All seemed great yesterday afrs were where the should be around 14.7 so I parked it and then while driving to work this morning guess what came back! The lope in the idle.

Agghh. The CEL did come back on and I will be checking that at lunch time and will update that info. I have no idea what's goin on.


Is it possible my headgasket is seeping? Although I am not missing fluid.



I put some new fuel in it with some injector cleaner so time will tell of that helps at all.