I'm glad to hear that you agree. There really is no substitute for posting helpful & useful information, either publically, or via PM...

i would PM or email but lets keep it here since the topic has been started, i would love it if you would reply here, that way if anyoen else runs into this problem they can use search and etc...


Ne wayz soembody told me it looks like a high mileage engine that didnt use synthetic oil.

Hopefully that wou;ldnt effect teh engine too much

Honestly it's hard to say...it might have already affected the engine and/or the turbocharger(s), but the first priority is the compression test. If it passes the compression test (along with a driving test to ensure it still boosts well) and you end up purchasing it, then let us know ... I'll post some steps you can take to flush the old oil out.

Like pwpanas said its hard to say. We dont exactly know how long it has been running on what types of oil. We dont know how often the oil changes were done. The most wear an tear would occur on your bearings from improper oil use.

there's no real way to see what condition the bearing side of your motor is in... realistically you can only tear it down then find out...

do you currently own the car or are you "going" to own the car?
without tearing it down i think its just pretty much gonna be drive it till something happens
just make sure it's currently not knocking in the bottom end, always make sure it's topped up with oil and make sure you oil pressure readings are good

The most wear and tear would have occurred on the engine bearings of the Mkiv Supra you're planning to buy if it was ever run with an extremely low oil level, and/or if a very large shot of NO2 was installed and regularly used on the car. Suprafann, in addition to checking for other signs of poor maintenance, also be sure to check carefully for signs of NO2 installation (eg. a hole drilled, tapped & then plugged in the throttle body), as well as 'standard' bpu modifications, before you make your final offer to the seller.

well illl be picking it up on wednesdy if it checks out

wat im going to do is have the seller do a compression test at his shop.than go to toyota to have them check the undercarriage and body......as i wanna make sure the frame is straight

when i test drive it, what should i look/listen for....say i full throttle it, and than what should i look/listen for at normal driving

when you got that pic of the oil cap were you able to drive it then or hear it running ? does it actually do anything strange ?

compression test is prolly a good idea. could you take it to a check place and have them to a Vehicle Information Report type of thing ? they'll do a better check and i'd say they'll be cheaper than toyota.

is " the seller " a car yard or what ? don't let a second hand car yard to a compression test on a supra. please. i work up the road from one. just don't.
:stupid: :eek: ... and it'll be the guy with the sign who does the job.

I agree 100%, and I'll take this advice one step further. Since most courts regard any used car transaction as "as - is ... buyer beware", YOU are responsible for the accuracy of the compression test figures. In other words, there may be no recourse if you purchase the car and find it needs a new/rebuilt engine a few weeks later. I'm sorry to say that I've heard back from some buyers about compression tests done by sellers and I hear things like "160s across the board". I hope it's not news to anyone that, even if that information is near-accurate, that statement alone is insufficiently detailed to give you a good indication of the health of the engine.

Imho, either you need to do the compression test yourself, or you need to pay an independent mechanic to do it (preferrably one experienced with the Mkiv Supra turbo). If you can't find anyone nearby, post here and I'll find you a Supra owner in the area who can direct you to an objective, skilled resource that can do the compression test.

Lastly, if the engine has many thousands of miles on it since the last sparkplug change, the PCV hoses get so rock hard they may have to be cut off, and the plastic coilpack connectors may crack they're removed. Either you, or the person/shop performing the compression test, should have some spare PCV hoses and coilpack connectors available just in case. Fwiw, I'd suggest you agree with the seller ahead of time that if it fails the compression test, he compensates you for the cost of any hoses or connectors that need to be replaced.

well the seller said if i find a problem with it he will pay for my tickets back lol


Ne way i was thinking about taking it to TOYOTA for a compression test, and have them check the body

they said it would be 89 bucks for compression (not sure if thats most cars or excluding supras etc)

they want 189 to check hoses/belts...not sure if ill pay that much for that job

and i have to call again tos ee how much they charge for a frame check

what you gusy think, IS Toyota reliable?

PANAS...the car is located in texas...