damaged engine
 

my engine go tdamaged during testing, so looking for a new one, any help? it was bored to 3.3 already could i go 3.5 cause two pistons got damaged, the connecting rod broke during the run. i am desperate.

Regarding your damaged engine, you could either go with a used jdm aristo 2jz-gte longblock (about $3k), or a new shortblock from 'yota (about $2400).

Regarding the bore #s you quoted, was that inches or Liters? I'd have to assume you're talking about liters, because a bore of 3.3" would be less than the oem bore size of 86mm=3.385827". If you are talking about liters, please note that an increase in bore alone can't take the 2jz-gte to 3.3L. Again, oem bore size is 86mm. 1st overbore is 86.5mm, and then max adviseable overbore 87mm. This is only a 1.2% increase, which means your new engine goes from 3L to 3.04L. I've heard that an 87.5mm or 88mm overbore is possible, but I've also heard of cracked cylinder walls, so personally I wouldn't recommend it. Even with an 88mm overbore (a 2.3% increase), you're still only looking at 3.07L. The only way to get to 3.3L or 3.4L is to install a stroker kit (but your profile doesn't mention stroker). Fwiw, I've never heard of 3.5L even with a stroker...

Lastly, I can't help but comment that you must have been either spraying a hellacious amount of no2 (a 200 shot???), or spraying under 3k rpms (or both) to break a 2jz-gte connecting rod...be sure to tell your tuner that he needs to to retard the timing based on the size of the shot (for a 200 shot, you should be retarded by at least six to eight degrees from a conservative boost-only curve), and to never spray under 3k rpms*. If you're spraying that 200 shot all at once, consider installing a progressive controller...it's harder on the solenoids, but much easier on the engine...

*Note that a very small shot (eg 50-shot), or a progressive shot can be safely sprayed at 2500-2800 rpms, if properly tuned, but the general rule for a straight shot in a 2jz-gte, with anything even in the ballpark of an oem timing curve, is no no2 under 3k.

thanks for the advise M8, it will be well taken, and sorry the block is bored to 88mm,

"...M8..." ??????

...and (fwiw) I'm still confused ... when you said "it was bored to 3.3 already could i go 3.5", were you talking inches or liters?

He said that it was bored to a 3.3, that is .3 larger bore than stock.

Yes, but 3.3 what? 3.3 inches? 3.3 Liters?

.3 inches larger diameter bore? or .3 total liters larger bore? or .3 mm larger bore?

Hey, where it says stock under my name, how do i change that???

Im am assuming 3.3 liters instead of the original 3.0 liters

Unfortunately, that assumption is impossible without a stroker kit. There's no physical way (even at 88mm) to get an additional .3 liters of displacement.

yep 3.3 liters larger than stock size of 3.0 liters. (M8 - mate)

Again, that's impossible, without using a stroker. Bore only no way. Absolute max with bore only is 3.07L (see above post).

M8 got it...thx! :)

You can edit your "Custom User Title" under the User CP, then "Edit Profile"...

Again, that's impossible, without using a stroker. Bore only no way. Absolute max with bore only is 3.07L (see above post).

hey i am sorry i can't answer some of the questions asked cause i am trying to learn, i sent the car to be built to run under 10 secs on the 1/4 mile, i haven't even driven it yet and it got damaged, maybe when i get within the next month and a half, i will be getting all the technical details with it. i am just trying to learn about supras, so any advise will be welcomed, thanks.

Yep, and I'm trying to help by correcting some misinformation you might have been told by whomever you sent it to. I'd strongly suggest you get this cleared up so that you know for sure what you're paying for...

I also mentioned it because an 88mm overbore will weaken the cylinder walls (depending on how much boost & nos you're running). You need to be aware of this and ensure the shop takes full responsibility if your cylinder walls crack when you try to run in the 9s...

well maybe it's stroked then, cause i was told it's now running 3.3 liters, did u read my spec sheet i posted some time ago, cause it seems like you know what you talking about, to see what was done, do you drag yours, what time you getting

Is this the spec sheet? http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...7803#post17803

Those specs do NOT mention a stroker kit. Based on those specs, you've only got about 3.07L.

If you're interested in comments, you did not need to get your engine built for 700hp. Also 700hp won't get you into the 9s...but a 76mm turbo will put down FAR more than 700hp...and far more than 700rwhp too.

That post doesn't show what kind of transmission you're running.

Which "racing oil pump" did you go with?

My Supra is built for roadracing & top speed, so no dragstrip times sorry...

this is the spec list i got so far see what you think


- Crower Billet Steel Rods
- JE Forge Aluminum Pistons
- Hot Tanked, Deburred and Magna fluxed Block
- Magna fluxed Crankshaft
- Block Bored to 88mm, Decked and O-Ringed
- ARP Hardware
- UPRD Girdles for Mains
- Pistons Crown and Skirts coated by Swain Tech
- Full Port and Polish with Multi-Angle Valve Job
- Decked Head
- 8:1 Compression
- Valve Facings and Top of Combustion Chambers coated by Swain Tech
- 264/272 Jap Spec HKS Camshafts
- AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
- ARP Head studs
- Racing Oil Pump
- Flow Benched tested Manifold
- 85mm Throttle Body
- Fully Polished Engine Bay
- Chromed SP-76mm Turbo
- GTS Trim
- HKS GT Header
- HKS GT Racing Wastegate
- Turbine Housing and Header ceramic coated by Jet Hot
- Polished HKS GT Front Mount Intercooler
- Polished Custom 85mm Intercooler Piping
- HKS SSQ BOV
- SP Custom 3 1/2" Down pipe
- Dual In-Tank Walbro Fuel Pumps
- Independent SS Braided Lines
- Opposite ends rail feeding
- 1000cc Injectors
- Injectors Balanced and Blueprinted by RC Engineering
- Powerhouse Racing Fuel Rail
- Paxton Adjustable Fuel Regulator
- NOS Direct Port Kit 200Shot
- NX Bottle Heaters
- NX Bottle Blankets
- AEM EMS Controlled Single Stage
- Custom Racing NX Intercooler Fogger system
- AEM EMS Controller Fogger Shot
- NX Bottle Blanket
- Apex'I Peak/Hold Boost Gauge(2.5 bar)
- Apex'I Peak/Hold EGT Gauge
- Apex'I Turbo Timer
- HKS-EZ Boost Controller
- AEM EMS Tuned by worlds best EMS Tuner, Justin Nenni
- HKS Twin-Power Ignition Amplifier
- FJO Wideband Kit w/ AFR Display
- Earl's SS Lines

- Hurst Line Lock Kit
- Custom KYB 4-Way Adjustable Shocks
- GReddy Front Strut Tower Brace
- Cusco Rear Strut Tower Brace
- TRD Front and Rear Sway Bars

Those specs do NOT mention a stroker kit. Based on those specs, you've only got about 3.07L.

If you're interested in comments, you did not need to get your engine built for 700hp. Also, 700hp won't get you into the 9s...but a 76mm turbo will put down FAR more than 700hp...and far more than 700rwhp too.

That spec list doesn't show what kind of transmission you're running.

When your engine got damaged (broken connecting rods, right?), were they stock, or were they the "Crower Billet Steel Rods"?

Which "racing oil pump" did you go with?

My Supra is built for roadracing & top speed, so no dragstrip times sorry...

those are things i will have to find out, so do you think it is put together ok or what, give me your 2 cents

My 2 cents is already given. The information (as it's posted here) is inconsistent ... and the answers to my questions will help determine if "it is put together ok".

Note: I know Justin N. quite well, and if his shop is working on your Supra, I'm sure it's fine. The inconsistencies are probably due to a communication gap and nothing more...

thanks, i will do some research and let you know

I have a question 4 u philzilla, I seem to be having what I think is a miss fire around the begining of my boost range (I have the Tru-twin conversion) at the beginning of 4000 rpm to almost 5000 sometimes. do u think this could be caused by my boost controller (AVCR) not being tuned properly, or do u think it would most likley be from my ecu (greddy E-manage) not being tuned properly??? Or do u think it could be something as simple as an injector being clogged or possible a screwed up coil???? any suggestions or thoughts???

Is anyone still there?

Yep.
How many miles are on your spark plugs? What kind are they (copper, platinum, or iridium?) What are they gapped at? ...and how many miles on your coilpacks?

P.S. You can call me Phil...the 'zilla' part is a nickname that a friend of mine gave my Supra.

Not sure about the spark plugs, I'll have to check them today. I bought the car about 4 months ago, the guy I bought it from was stupid and knew nothing about the car, not even that his second turbo was not engaging. So I would assume that they've never been changed and that the coils have 120,000 miles on them.

In general oem coilpacks start getting significantly weaker before 120K miles...with new plugs, properly gapped, and new coilpacks (fwiw) I'm quite certain your ignition problems will go away...

There is a good chance that the spark plugs have not been changed in the last 5 or so years, maybe even not at all. where in the world are you from??

I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you mean it as a compliment, then many thanks.

Oh, and please let me know if you'd like recommendations on spark plugs.

How about you? From your post, I'd assume you were able to correct the 2nd-turbo-not-engaging problem. How did you diagnose & correct the problem? (pardon my curiosity).

P.S. Don't forget about weak coilpacks possibly being related to your boost-miss problem. If you change the plugs and it's still missing, you'll need to fork over about $400 (about $60 ea. or so plus shipping) to 'yota for six brand-new coils.

Sorry to sound weird, I did mean it literal, "where are u from in the world"- sorry Im new to this site and didn't know I could just click on your icon to find out where u live.

Yes, I would really like a spark plug recommendation, i'm not too trust worthy on what a lot of other sites have to say about them.

About the turbos- when I flew down to cali to buy it, I first test drove the car and he knew nothing about the car except that he liked the way that it looked. He had some shops install some upgrades, like an avcr, tein supen. w/edfc, front mount ect. well, when i test drove it, it felt fine till i took it up to about 6,000 for the first time. It hit 1 bar when the first turbo would normally engage, but when the second turbo would engage, the boost level would just drop until I was at almost 0 boost press. which told me the second turbo was not engaging. Since there was zero smoke comming out of the 3.5 exhaust, that told me that the turbo was most likley not bad, just not properly hooked up. I also noticed that some of the vaccum lines were blocked off, and it looked like someone maybe tryed to set it up for the tru-twin conversion. So, I got a 1500$$$ discount after he already lowered the price, bought it drove it home, got the tru-twin conversion diagram, replumbed everything, and they have worked ever since.

Also, and if you could point me in the direction of some good spark plugs, that would help me a lot!! Thanks, Sean

Np...near Atlanta, GA. How about you?
If you want to change your plugs with every oil change, then you can go with inexpensive plugs like NGK 6097s. If you'd like your plugs to last longer than that, go with oem plugs gapped down to about .030". Note that oem plugs are platinum with a very fine center electrode. You have to be VERY careful when you gap this kind of plug, since even the slightest scratch or chip on the center electrode will create inferior performance.
Glad to hear you were able to diagnose the problem! Great work!
You can pick 6097s up from sparkplugs.com, NOPI, or NAPA. Oem plugs from Toyota (Jeff Watson 800-327-2087)...

Thanks alot for the help! So oem supra plugs are what is best? I guess that keeps it simple, thats 4 sure.

I am from Boise Idaho, the state capital. There sure are not alot of supras down here, how about where u live.

So in all of the upgrades u have done over the years, which would u say was the most worth the money??
About your single turbo kit, what did u go with-brand, do u think that brand is very important?? Im one that thinks, if its made with something like garrett internals, then its probably fine. What do you think??

Do you have stock internals with you single turbo kit?? what is you ball park whp??

If I bought the cheap plugs, they should still be gaped at .030 right?

Yep. Don't forget to change them every oil change or so (i.e. no more than 5000 miles max per set of 'cheap' copper plugs).

The fuel system upgrade. This is the cornerstone of all future turbo upgrades, and the one key item that enabled me to experience high boost levels.
My kit is HKS and my turbo is Sound Performance. Yes, I believe that brand is very important because it's generally an indication of fitment, reliability, AND the amount of r&d that has gone into making sure all parts of the the turbo & turbo kit are perfectly sized.
Not unless you know that exact turbo (including intake a/r, exhaust a/r, etc) & exact size is correct for your application.
No...(only) if you're shooting for 900rwhp or more, you need to consider building your internals. Anything less than that, and the stock internals do just fine, if you're properly tuned and running the right fuel for your boost level. If you're running without sufficient tuning, or not running the right fuel for your boost level, no amount of building or expensive internals will save your engine.
800rwhp or so now...shooting for over 1200rwhp soon (with an 88mm turbo, 1200cc injectors, 3 fuel pumps, 3-stage nitrous, etc. it should do that quite easily)...

the way you talk like proffessional man....
but you're a smart ass .

kkiepvvessau, I can only hope to one day equal your technical contributions to help solve 2JZ Beast's damaged engine problem and Seanchp's spark plug question. :rolleyes:

Please bear with me on the following 'rant': kkiepvvessau, if you feel that my need to drive home technical accuracy (eg. "There's no physical way (even at 88mm) to get an additional .3 liters of displacement.") is abrasive, then I'd ask you which of the following two scenarios is worse:

• Scenario #1: A Supra owner reads 2JZ Beast's (unintentionally incorrect) posts about 3.3L or 3.5L achievable using bore alone, and then decides to spend $3,000.00+ to buy new 88mm pistons & rings, get his engine removed, stripped, bored to 88m, bearings+ring gaps+etc. re-clearanced, decked, longblock+turbo(s) reassembled (with a new engine gasket set & hedgasket), and reinstalled in his Supra, all just so he can get that full 3.3L or 3.5L of displacement ... only to find he ends up with 3.07L of displacement and possibly-weakened cylinder walls...thus pretty much WASTING $3,000.00+ of his hard-earned money.

...OR...

• Scenario #2: That same Supra owner puts up with & reads my (admittedly) slightly-abrasive (aka 'smart ass') posts correcting the misinformation, and thus avoids wasting $3K+ on Scenario #1.

Hmmm? I know that 2JZ Beast posted the incorrect info because that's what he was told by someone, and he did not intend to post incorrect info. Honestly, I posted the correction to help fellow Supra owners not waste their $. kkiepvvessau, please ask yourself about the motivation for your post.

i can only say that i was glad from the day i found this forum and for the help and advise i recieved, i know i have some more money to spend on this car but i don't wnat to waste it, so hoss your comments are welcome anytime, as soon as i get all the correct information i will let you know what is what, thanks again for teying to help

Hey pwpanas! You were right on the spark plugs! I changed them friday, and my car is now running better than it ever has! You are the man!

Let me ask you, what kind of boost controller do you have?? what is you boost pressure?? and wht internal mods do you have done??

Oh! and thanks so much for your advise and help.-Sean

Thank you for your kind words. Again, if you used copper plugs, be sure to change them every 5000 miles.

I'm currently using a manual boost controller (Hallman), but I'm planning to get my AEM to regulate my boost soon (I've already purchased the solenoid, etc.). For bpu Mkiv Supras, I usually recommend the HKS EVC-EZII.

I typically run anywhere from 15psi through ~40psi, depending on the octane fuel I have in my tank, and the application. Although ~40psi is cool for a dyno run or dragstrip, 30psi or so is max practical for getting groceries. ;)

Pretty much everything (except a stroker kit), since it's built for ~1200rwhp+ (note: I haven't dyno'd that high yet). You may already know that the oem 2jz-gte internals are good up to about 900rwhp through a 6spd (which is PLENTY of power for most applications).

Again, anytime...glad I could help.

Please tell us some more about your Supra. How do you like your AVC-R boost controller? Have you ever tried more than 17psi with race fuel? Is your eManage dyno-tuned? Do you ever roadrace with those Teins?

I Like may AVC-R just fine, it is easy to change your settings, and you can have 2 pre setting A-or-B, so its nice having it set 11-12 and pulling up to an evo, then just changing my boost settings to B, which is generally set from 17-18 PSI or 1.15 BAR.

I have just gotten my car running at a point that I might feel comfortable with trying more, however i have heard that the oem turbos on supras are not effeicent past 18 PSI. Weather or not that is true I do not know.

I assume that the car was dyno tuned before the owner before the last, but am not sure. That is why I am planning to have it done in the next couple of months.

I have not yet had the chance to do any road racing with my tein coil overs, minus my extreme speeding at times. I plan to do some of that in the future though. I have had number of decent cars in my life for my age, and I have to say that this car with this suspension has by far superceeded my expectations. Needless to say I don't plan on changing my car anytime soon!

Does anyone know how to tune and tweek the HKS adjustable cam gears??