clutch help
 

I'm currently building a 98 Supra, with a Titan Motorsports engine, 74mm turbo, 4" exhaust, FMIC, full fuel system, AEM engine management. I'm looking to get a max of 800hp on high boost, but a more reasonable 650hp at a regular boost level, used mainly as a weekend driver. I'm looking for a clutch/flywheel combination, that:
A: does not have extremely harsh engagement characteristics, i.e,"chatter" "on/off switch"
B: reasonable pedal feel
C: ability to handle power reliably i.e, 25k miles or more of regular street use.
D: reasonable pricing
any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

Do you mean the "800hp" (=680rwhp) that you posted above, or do you really mean 800rwhp? The reason I ask is because 680rwhp is a pitiful goal for a turbo as large as a 74mm on high boost...

If you really do mean 800rwhp (and not 800hp), then there is no clutch that meets all of your criteria. If you don't mind me asking, what line of work (or study) are you in? On the other thread you said "...i am a professional tech, i repair exotics,ferraris, lambos and porches..." - I guess they don't tell you how to spell Porsche when they work have you work on them. ;) j/k lol ... either way, if you're really an automotive tech you should know there isn't such thing as a cheap, smooth, 800rwhp clutch. rofl :rolleyes2

lol. i didnt mean cheap and smooth as ina stock honda clutch, i meant more like reasonable priced and smooth, for a 800RWHP clutch. lol loooks like you are the only help around here!!! thanks!!

So you do mean 800rwhp and not 800hp?

Either way, you can't have it all. If it holds 800rwhp and it's smooth, it won't be "reasonable priced". If it's reasonable priced and smooth, it won't hold 800rwhp. Etc. Sorry to break the bad news to you, sir. Just pick any two of the three and I can probably find a product for you.

Yep, just me, Mr. Chopped Liver.

ok well smooth and holds 800Rwhp. by reasonable priced i mean, not 5grand! like, say 2500 is my budget for this clutch and flywheel. hopefully. if its more, oh well. appreciate all the help!!!that is if the stock dual mass wont handle the power!!!lol

Sorry you're not listening. You can ONLY pick two. Period. In other words, if you pick smooth & 800rwhp I don't want to hear any restrictions on the price at all. Sorry, but that's the truth. If you want lies, just call someone trying to sell you one.

For about $2500 you can get a clutch that holds 800rwhp just fine, but it has a stiff pedal pressure and when it grips it grips hard. These are race clutches!!!! They're designed to handle abuse, like repeatedly dropping the clutch at 6K to launch in the 1/4, with SLICKS! ...they're NOT designed to ensure your g'friend doesn't smear her makeup while driving to the opera.

Your oem clutch will only hold about 400rwhp before it starts to slip...and if you drive aggressively, it won't hold 400rwhp for very long.

So which one do you want to give up on, slick? 800rwhp? smooth? ...or reasonably-priced? Just pick one to give up on (or two to use), and then don't mention it again. If you can do that, then I can help, and you can take my advice to the bank. In other words, I don't BS...I have my own Mkiv Supra TT and I've personally worked on at least a hundred Mkiv TTs (yep, I can provide references). I bet I've changed at least two dozen Mkiv TT clutches all by myself, and I've had four different clutches in my own Mkiv Supra TT. I have personal experience driving (and in most cases also installing) almost every clutch that's on the market for the Mkiv TT. Again, you can depend on no BS from me, but sometimes the truth can hurt.

ok give me streetable, somewhat, and 800rwhp. lol

I'll research it some more, but I have two choices for your application off the top of my head. One of them is actually within your budget, but it's the more risky choice. The other one is above your budget, but it's 100% certain to meet your needs.

1. The first is the HKS GD Clutch Max Twin-Plate. Note: This recommendation assumes this clutch is *still* availabile WITH the:
   Quote:

   ...engagement springs (that) are placed between two pressure plates and the center plate. --- They force the clutch plates to engage one at a time. Doing so makes it easier to slip the clutch, improving street drivability and clutch control.

   I am 100% certain that this version of the clutch was available for the 2jz-gte at one time, but may not be any more. You'll have to call an HKS dealer to find out. Fwiw, I recommend MVP Motorsports or AAP Motorsports. If the clutch is not available with the engagement springs (not the same as the springs for the "sprung-hub"), then do not buy it! Here is the URL for information on the clutch (the one you want to ask about is model 2604-ST004):
   http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1227
   One last note on this clutch: The reason I say its a more risky choice is that 800rwhp is at the upper end of its holding capabilities*. There is a chance, especially if you drive it hard at a full 800rwhp, that it may not last that long. Lastly, despite the 2-stage engagement, you will still find it less smooth than the oem clutch.
   .
2. The second clutch is a lot more pricey, but as I said above, its results are certain. It's the Tilton triple carbon, and its holding power actually exceeds 1000rwhp*. Here's a link where you can purchase it, although you might find it cheaper if you try other sites, and negotiate hard (I didn't pay anywhere near this amount for mine, bought as part of a group buy):
   http://www.titanmotorsports.com/tiltripcarcl.html
   I do have a couple of cautionary notes on this clutch too. This clutch can be driven just as smoothly as oem (takes a bit of extra mental concentration when engaging, but it can be done), it has a near-stock pedal pressure, and it holds 800rwhp np. However, does have to be driven in a special way. You'll have to avoid stop-and-go 'rush hour' traffic as much as possible, and slip the clutch as little as possible when you engage it. If you sit there and ride the clutch for a long time, you'll end up with a VERY expensive pile of carbon powder sitting in the bottom of your bellhousing. Oh, it's tricky to install (i.e. even if you're an experienced mechanic, you should still pay an expert that has installed this specific clutch before), must never be over-disengaged (there are strict measurements the 'throw' must stay within, and special (additional) steps may need to be taken as part of the the install to ensure those specs), and there are spacer plates that must be swapped after a certain amount of wear. All that said, I love mine and probably wouldn't be able to drive my Supra on the street without it.

Again, I'll research some more and post back if I come up with other good choices. If any other forum members have direct (personal, first-hand) experience with other good alternatives, please post and I'd be happy to comment, discuss and share experiences. Also feel free to ask about any other alternatives if you don't have direct, first-hand experience with them.

* I'm including this little disclaimer to point out that clutches don't actually hold "rwhp" - they hold tq. The rwhp figures I quoted above assume typical rwhp:tq curves for an 'apu' 6spd 2jz-gte.

much appreciated!!!