my new supra
 

hey ppl, i just got a stock supra TT and im lookin to upgrade as much as possible, i dnt kno much about cars but even if it's not street legal, i would appreciate you tellin me what good upgrades are and how much they are worth rough, thx loads

A downpipe isn't street legal (esp. in Cali), but it's one of your first mods. You'll also need a BCC and a boost gauge. Those three mods will set you back about $500-$600 in parts and maybe $300 or so in labor. It'll put you at "bpu" level, which is the best bang-for-your-buck upgrade. After these mods, you can safely increase your boost to 16psi on 93 octane pump gas. "Bpu" can get you an additional 100hp, with just those few mods!

Please clarify - when you say "upgrade as much as possible", what exactly do you mean? In other words, what is your total budget (including labor), and your horsepower goal?

Where's Qatar?

Well my budget is between 60-75000$,goin for 800hp roughly, and qatar is in the middle east, but im british, moved here bout 3 years ago,

thx for the reply

1. Is your Supra a 6spd or an auto?
2. Do you mean 800rwhp (=940hp) OR 800hp (=680rwhp)?
3. What is your intended application for this vehicle? (eg. top speed, roadracing, drag racing, autocross, drifting, daily driver, etc.)
4. How important is appearance and creature comforts such as stereo/custom dash/widebody/etc. ('bling' can suck up a significant portion of your budget)?

As I hope you would assume, I'm not asking these questions just to be nosy. To be budget-efficient, all modifications must be designed to compliment your Supra's intended usage. Also, please keep in mind if you answer "800rwhp, all of the above" to my questions, (unfortunately) your stated figure won't be nearly enough. Here's an example:
http://www.speedforsale.com/viewcar.php?vid=248
(don't look at the selling price; look at the stated investment - 2nd line in the title)
...and then please notice that this is 'only' a ~700rwhp vehicle. The reason it cost so much is because it was built for roadracing+dragracing+show, with an equally meticulous emphasis on all three.

800 hp, 75000 is the most i have to spend on it at the moment but im gettin around 150000 in total to upgrade it, road racing, and for now appearance and sound systems are my second priority, im gna do a bit racing before adding all the extra weight that comes with appearance.

6 spd manual800hp(=680rwhp)

Last question (for now) I promise: What did you think of the 'bpu' modifications I posted here:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...47&postcount=2
?

The reason I ask is because, although they won't get you to 800hp, they will get you enough rwhp for a fun (and VERY reliable) roadrace vehicle.

it was quite helpful, im gna go to an area in qatar where there is a car shop like every few metres and look for these upgrades, should be easy enough to find :) and my friend who knows alot of thos ppl is gonna come with me. thanks

After you complete the BPU modifications, I'd strongly recommend that you get some roadrace track time with the vehicle pretty much as-is. A wider set of rims (11.5" wide on the rear, 10" wide on the front is an excellent combination), and some roadrace tires (eg Hoosiers or V710s) would be all you need. Please keep in mind that a fully upgraded Toyota Supra Turbo can be a very dangerous vehicle to drive. If you take the time to learn its behavior at every performance level, you have a MUCH better chance of keeping it off the walls when you do get to the max. I'd sincerely like to see you SAFE, and your Supra in one piece for the next many many years.

Of course, I'd be happy to provide you with specific additional modifications whenever you're ready to go to the next level. After the rims and tires, you'll want to put in an aftermarket fuel system and ecu. If it'll be a dedicated track car, then I'd strongly recommend a Motec ecu. If it'll be both street and track, then an AEM is probably a better choice. I offer a fuel system, as do a number of other online suppliers. After the fuel system and ecu, your Supra will be ready for a single turbo, which will get you that 680rwhp (on RACE FUEL, keep in mind) that you're looking for. You should also upgrade your coilovers and your sway bars at this time. A roll cage is a good idea too. You'll also need to do a number of cooling modifications on the car as well, similar to the ones on this site:
http://www.boostaholic.com/supra/cooling/index.html

dude, you musta really helped this dude out! his supra is AMAZING!!!! you must know loads about supra's, whats yours like?

im planning to take every precaution with every step further i take

Thank you sir.

Mine's not quite as pretty as the red one:
http://www.myspace.com/pwpanas

...here's a really old site with my first stage of upgrades, back in 2001:
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/p/w/pwpanas/

thats wicked! im too worried to ever use N20 cos if you ever get the percentages wrong... thats pretty much it, amazing supra tho, alotta work has definetly gone into it at it seems spectacular

Looks don't really show the potential of a car, im keeping mine completely stock(exterior) for a while, only thing i changed are the seats cos they were really worn out

NOS is honestly no problem. You just need the proper electronic controls and tuning time. The guys you hear blowing their sh*t up don't do either - they try to install it untuned and with few or no electronic controls. Percentages are easily and accurately determined by tuning your fuel curve in conjunction with the size of the nitrous nozzles. If you look at it the other way, it's just as easy to blow up your engine with a turbo if you don't upgrade the fuel system and if you don't tune it. In fact, its the same thing exactly.

Thanks again for your kind words.

Hmmm...that (indirectly) brings up other concerns: How many miles on your Supra. Do you have maintenance records? Also before you roadrace OR upgrade it, you need to know precisely what condition the engine is in: Have you done a compression & leakdown test?

Whatever your friend or those shops recommend for your Supra, please post that advice here. That way I can help ensure that they aren't trying to waste your $.

P.S. It's VERY hard to find a shop that really knows how to work on an Mkiv Supra TT. It's more rare than a number of Porsche and Ferarri models. In other words, stay FAR away from shops that specialize in Civics and Eclipses. ;)

well, 41978 miles, engine
compression test Passed
leak down test=13% leakage

and i dont have the maintanance records

and umm when i went today i found a stainless steel downpipe TITAN, i didnt get it yet but 320$ and like 16-17 lbs or summin, what do you recon??

i also saw a Racing Suction Intake HKS that they had, you think i should go for it? he said 500$ (or in qatar's currency, 1800QR), is it useful at this point? because there are only 3 pieces left and it will fit a my TT

i think i want to go for a lower hp actually because i recon i still need to drive this car. or could i drive it on normal fuel at the hp intended?(safely)

Please provide more info. What were the specific numbers for each cylinder?
Which cylinder has 13% leakage?
:( I'd strongly recommend changing all fluids - each fluid has very specific recommendations - and inspecting everything top to bottom.
I'm sorry I don't quite understand your question. A downpipe will allow you to get to 'bpu' level with the oem twin turbos. This will allow you to run anywhere from oem boost all the way through 26psi. It's the boost controller (not the downpipe) that determines your boost level.
NO intake required for bpu. Like I said, post here with any (potentially bad) advice. The oem cold-air intake provides everything you need for bpu. In other words, you won't pick up any hp from that intake at bpu level.
What you ask here is a VERY complicated question. First of all, I don't know what "normal fuel" is in your city. Can you get 93 octane fuel, as rated using this formula (R+M)/2? Also, is 100 octane fuel available? If you don't have 100 octane fuel available, you can always use methanol injection together with 93 octane fuel, and still produce about 550rwhp or so with reliability.

Overall I agree with the implication of your question: the more you upgrade your car, and the more rwhp you expect from it, the less reliable it will be as a daily driver. I'm aware of bone-stock Mkiv Supras with 250K miles. If you upgrade to 680rwhp, don't expect anywhere near that before you'd need to do some work to it. -BUT- You can easily get to bpu level, and still have an extremely high degree of reliability. At bpu (about 400rwhp), the reliability is still very good (almost as reliable as stock).

Note that if you upgrade to 680rwhp, and you don't run race fuel or methanol injection, its likely to live a very short life. Even a fully race-built motor can be destroyed in a few seconds by detonation.

(i orignally meant 18% leakage total but forgot to correct, sorry) all cylinders were between 143-150 psi and as for the leakage test,
cylinder 1(2%)

cylinder 2(4%)
cylinder 3(3%)
cylinder 4(4%)
cylinder 5(2%)
cylinder 6(3%)

i mean do you think its a good downpipe for a supra TT? after looking at it at the shop i looked it up on the internet and this site says its suitable for a supra TT
http://www.killersupra.com/product.p...6&cat=0&page=1
well here they have all kinds of fuel, even 100 octane fuel, because this country is known for all the fuel it produces thanks to all the crude oil it has, which is good because fuel cost it quite low.

and i was thinking of some engine cooling accesories because out here its REALLY hot, i cant even emphasise how hot it is , what are your thoughts on this?

also the great thing is i can get track experience because my friend works at the losail track in qatar for racing and he can get my car on the track for test drives he said

Do you have specific per-cylinder compression numbers too? Without being there first-hand for the tests, I can tell you that your leakdown numbers look ok. However, your compression numbers look a bit low when compared with your leakdown numbers. For example, a brand-new engine can usually compression test at about 175psi. Compared with that, 143psi seems a bit low. Do you know if the oem procedures were precisely followed for the compression test?

Yes, that looks right.
Good plan. I already mentioned cooling modifications in my post above (last line/link).

well i only have the specifics for leak down on hand because my mate took it for compression test, i was out of the country at this time so ill try and get the specifics when i see him in a few days. ill get the downpipe in a few days aswell so, so far so good, thanks for all the help!

For what it's worth, I'd strongly advise getting the compression numbers re-taken/re-done. Be sure the EFI fuses are removed, ALL of the plugs are removed for the entire test, the throttle plate is open (accelerator pressed to the floor), and you let it turn over about 10 times before taking the reading. Other than that, follow the oem procedures (link above) exactly.

ok, umm ill try and take it for a compression test again this weekend, thx