11-21-2009, 10:05 PM | #1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Avondale, AZ
Posts: 169
|
Problem with the engine, no idea!!
I have a problem with my engine, it was driving fine after a few miles. i turned a corner started going then it acted like i slammed on the brakes for a second then drove fine, put it into nuetral then back into 3rd gear, then once i touched the accelerator pedal it started slowing down like i was pressing on the brake. i turned off the road and turned my car off, popped my hood and didnt see anything besides steam coming from the front which was probably the radiator. i turned it on and it made the worst noise i can imagine!! i didnt drive it, got a tow truck and dropped it at my place. Im new to cars and want to know what the problem could be, any ideas?? i posted a video.
heres the link: http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...MSn4h4l5k2TGxc |
11-22-2009, 12:18 AM | #2 |
AEM EMS
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 891
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It may not be as bad as it sounds (hopefully). It sounds as if the exhaust manifold is blowing combined with the cam belt being shredded. First things to check are oil level and quality, coolant level (steam coming from the front is a bit of a concern) Check the crankshaft pulley hasn’t come loose and the cam belt is ok. Also check the camshaft pulleys line up on there match marks when # 1 piston is at TDC and the crankshaft pulley mark is at zero. I think the next step would be compression test, although that wouldn't rule out the big-ends have gone.
Last edited by Bill UK; 11-22-2009 at 12:22 AM. |
11-22-2009, 05:25 PM | #3 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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I don't know how you came to any conclusion from that bill, the sound quality isn't the best. It might be better if you record another one with the mic. not as close to the engine bay.
Obviously after you check the oil & coolant levels, which as bill says, is the first priority, it would be worth removing the upper timing belt cover & checking that the belt is not loose or damaged before running the engine again. If that checks out OK then see what sort of oil pressure you have at idle & see if you can get a better sound recording at the same time. From the current recording all I can say is there does seem to be a manifold to head leak sort of sound, and obviously that the engine is still starting & running which is good news as you can't have bent all the valves. Can't say much more till I hear more, but it would also be worth pulling any fault codes & doing a compression test while you're under there. One problem I had with my 3.0 turbo was when the intake pipe came loose from the turbo, resulting in un-metered air getting into the intake. This made the car run very lean & resulted in the engine dying on anything but the lightest touch of the accelerator & lots of backfiring. This did throw a code though, 31 IIRC. Best of luck & hope it's something simple & cheap to sort...
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! |
11-28-2009, 07:30 AM | #4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Avondale, AZ
Posts: 169
|
So i decided to do a compression test to see if their was any leaks or watever their might be. i dont know if the results are good or bad. so tell me what you all think.
Dry/Wet Piston #1- 215/230 Piston #2- 220/235 Piston #3- 235/240 Piston #4- 210/210 Piston #5- 230/235 Piston #6- 240/235 |
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