Please Help Me Pass Emissions
 

I recently went for inspection here in New Jersey and failed for emissions. I don't have the printout with me, but I believe I passed the NOx but failed for High Carbons and one other thing (not sure). I don't want to get ripped off so can someone set me in the right direction. The car runs great and I just did a tune-up (plugs, wires, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, etc.), though I did notice a little oil on one pair of the plugs. I also do regular oil changes using castrol syntech. I also use high octane fuel (92). I know nothing about the O2 sensor but a mechanic I stopped at on the way home said something about maybe getting too much air in the mixture? I don't think its the charcoal cannister, as I don't smell fuel in the interior. The mechanic I saw said it may cost about $250.00 (ballpark figure), plus 75 for the re-inspection fee. Can anyone help me. PLEASE!

Sincerely,

James

james did you go to the inspection station in paramus?

Re: Inspection
 

No, I went to Secaucus as I heard they were O.K. also.

James

those guys dint pass you? hmm...well im tellin you man make that trek to paramus...or talk to nickeleye...i think he used to work with emissions

If you can get the info (#'s) off the 'failed' report, I can steer you to what is wrong. I manage a smog shop here in So. Cal. (the most anal smog control co. in the world)

i knew it...i knew he was gonna post on this thread sometime...the question was when

i got a quick q. if you dont have they egr valve, have it blocked off like the jdms will you pass?

money talks... pull the manager to the side and softly speak to him er. brive him...that'l work...hehe...
worked in houston for me...

If the smog tech doesn't notice (or care) that the EGR is missing.....

You should have a pre-test done to see where your at. Make sure they don't send the info into the state !!!
You don't want to go get tested 'blind', then be so far over that you become a "Gross Polluter".

With out the EGR (or plugged passages), the NOx will probably be too high. If your cat is working, and NOx is the only failure part of the test, and its only about 100 or so PPMs over the limit, you can retard the timing back to 5*, or 0* for the test. This will lower the NOx.
The CO% and HCs must already measure low.

This is why for smog test areas, I recommend leaving the EGR alone. If your engine is working properly, it won't hinder power. If you just must 'clean up the engine bay', then save all the parts to put back on for the test. If you just 'can't stand egr', then you can just pull the vacuum line on the valve and stick a golf tee in the hose.

well its just not worht the trouble then is it

Make sure your car is hot by the time it gets tested. Drive it hard for 1/2 hour and your catalytic converter will be at their optimum. If you still fail then you need to do some work

Re: Emissions
 

Found O2 sensor at exhaust manifold hanging off with no gasket so replaced it with a new (Bosch) sensor, then spent half hour looking for sub-sensor near cat till I realized I was looking at a Calif. setup, lol. It definately made a difference but MrNickleye thinks I may need new cat from riding around so fuel rich for so long and I think he may be right. Right now I have other problems as my hood cable snapped and I can't for the life of me get the hood poped even with all the great help I got off this forum, so I set up an appointment at a body shop where I know the guy and he is pretty decent. Thank you to everyone who responded.

James in NJ

I also just went through inspection...and failed pretty bad for emissions. if anyone could help that would be cool. im gona look at the car tommorow. I think that could be the oxygen sensor. or any chance a blown headgasket could do that? the car doesnt smoke or anything so i dont think it has a blown headgasket. thanks in advance


nox std. - 1110 me - 3180
HC std. - 148 me - 197
co% std. - .83 me - .88

Isphius........

It appears you need an 02 sensors to bring down the CO% and the HCs.

What kind of test is it? Dyno? idle? 2500rpm?

Apply a vacuum (mouth suction is enough) to the EGR valve at idle and if the engine coughs and sputters, then the EGR valve and passages are ok.
But the modulator or hoses may be a problem.
If no change in the engine is seen, and the valve diaphram holds vacuum, then the passaged are plugged.

N/A 7mge, Start with the cover (4 bolts) on the top of the intake runner. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar.../em/EM_20.html
its far left in photo, middle.

with a new valve job, tuneup, cat conv, 02 sensor, and clean EGR system.
My #s here in Calif with Dyno test:
15mph

HC. max=106...me=70
CO%. max=0.70...me=0.14
NOx. max=762...me=482

25mph

HC. max=81...me=30
CO%. max=0.57...me=0.00
NOx. max=701...me=152

It was a dybo test. i was thinking the o2 sensor too. ill check all this out tommorow. thanks!! i need to get the nox down thou lol...the hcs and cos arent that bad. waht causes nox to be high?

Went to reinspection today...new bosch o2 sensor, tuneup, car runs great. failed even worse this time. i dont know whats wrong with the car...im gona try a better o2 sensor and im getting a new cat soon. :(:(:(




nox - 3252/1110
HC - 255/148
co - .87/.83

High NOx is caused by the EGR system not working. A bad valve, modulator (or both), or plugged passages (or all of the above).
Mine was the passages. The way its set up, and if they've never been cleaned out, I'd say that it a very likely cause.

See my earlier post. If you are pretty mechanically inclined, you'll see how to clean them out as you remove the valve, and the little cover on top of the intake manifold.

Use a vacuum cleaner and a coat hanger/screwdriver to scrape it out.

What if I just run a stainless steel line from my exhaust back into the intake with a ball valve? haha. Im getting kinda frsutrated with this emissions thing. I do need a new cat thou. I cant get that egr cover off....took the bolts out and it was stuck there like it was welded

Fellas,

nice to read some SMOG notes, we've had a hullava time getting 'ol 1987 NA automatic to pass the high idle 2500 rpm test, HCs at 120 with limit 100.

Did a induction cleaner for 1 hour, drip drip drip, retarded the timing to 5-BTDC, and squeaked by at 95 HCs. Also in the tank now is Super, and the injection cleaner stuff.

We have a knock sensor code 52 which plan on doing the rewire for today, but the NJ purple 2011 sticker never looked so nice.

I think a EGR cleaning is in order.

-hansey in Paramus:stickpoke

umm diagnostics.....
 

About any auto zone will assist you in plugging in a computer to tell you the codes... Then you just have to replace those parts. O2 sensor, egr...pcv valve, lots of reasons... down to a lil pin hole in a vacuum line. Decent website here with alot of on hand parts, check all those items in the emissions section.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...gname,Emission

FLAGGED FOR SPAM!

1st of all there's a lot of auto stores that will scan your car for free, but more than half of the time the code DOES NOT give specific clues to the problem at hand. Real Auto techs pass serious tests to diagnose emissions problems and Autozone in fact has stopped selling parts based on the code read.

Case in point we have a Toyota Sienna comes into the shop with "Catalyst inefficiency" code. This does not mean change the catalytic converter! The tech did that the code came back. They changed the intake manifold gasket, code came back, turned out to be a broken tube link on the EVAP purge solenoid! Imagine!

cheahs:drool: