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Little Help Please
I was replacing my thermostat when the bolt snapped off in the top hole. I put down a bead of gasket former and put a NEW bolt into the bottom hole. (Yeesh, this is startin to sound like a sex story). Anyway, no problems so far. It really broke off bad, no, ain't no way I can get a set of lock plyers on it, there just ain't enough of anything to grab. I have a set of "easyouts" with some small ones that will fit, but I'm afraid of this job, cuz this is the block I'm bolting onto, right? Ain't no way I want to screw this up. Should I take it to a shop? Like I said, no problems yet, but I don't like ridin down the road with just one bolt holding my thermostat housing on. I know the fan shroud will have to come off, and that may give enough room, especially if they have one of those right angle drills. So what do you guys (and gals) think about my dilemna here. Any suggestions on what route to take? Thanks.
Scruffboy |
broken bolts suck. it happened to me twice and i tryed doing it myself both times and both times i ended up taking it to the shop.
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Thanks Tone Loc
At least I have someone to be miserable with me.
Scruffboy |
do you have access to like a torch to heat it up, youd be better off taking it too a shop if you dont feel comfortable fixing it yourself.
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I guess i have to say if you can get it to a shop i would let them do it if you dont feel that you can do it with out fucking something up(better save than sorry). Good luck with it thow
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you can drill the bolt that was left in the hole
you jus gotta be really careful not to drill the metal around the hole jus pick a small bit first, make sure you got a pilot hole so when you drill it, the bit wont be dancing around jus go slow, and eventually the bolt will be thinned out and you can jus get it off with sum pliers or anything that can grab it |
and if all goes terribly wrong.... replace the rear thermostat housing (2 nuts, 1 bolt iirc) and bolt another one on ;)
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Broken Bolt
Unfortunately, like Tone Loc, I don't exactly have the hands of a surgeon (maybe experimented a little too much in my youth). Anyway, Supra Girl mentions the back end of the thermostat housing. I thought the thermo housing bolted right onto the block. Am I that stupid? (don't answer, and see above for reasons) If it bolts onto something I can take off, I'll just replace that part. I have to run out and check on this. That would save me a world of hurt. Thanks Supra Girl. Much obliged.
Scruffboy |
try this, take off the thermo housing, completely out of the car. once done, you will have as much room as needed to attempt to drill out the bolt. and if you f*ck up, you can just replace it. this way would prolly be cheaper than taking it to a shop but if you mess up and cant wait for a replacement part you may want to take it a shop...
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^ now you do know that you're not allowed to rewrite my intelligent posts don't you :P
but yes it is bolted to the head so if you remove the cps and unplug all your sensors there and move the harness you can unbolt the entire thing and can put it in a vice to remove the sensors and if you have a spare already to bolt on... you could have a play with it to try and get the bolt out... and if you can't get it out... no harm done huh ;) look at 16333 (right hand top) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...es/MA9047B.gif |
Thanx Supra Girl
I had it all screwed up. I thought the front of the thermo housing bolted to the block, but now I see there is a rear part of the thermo housing that can be removed from the block (let me know if I got this wrong). Is it difficult to remove from the block? (remember, I'm working in the engine compartment, I don't have the engine on my kitchen table). The TSRM was blowin my mind cuz it's all different now. But I did get a nice pic of the cooling system printed on 11 by 17 paper (the big sheet). I think I might be able to do this. Thank you everyone for all the help!!!
Scruffboy |
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k see at the front of this pic just in front of my ss exhaust manifold you can see 3 thread holes right below where the cps or distributor goes... those are the 3 studs/bolts you need to remove to get the rear thermo housing off
http://supra.co.nz/rebuild/manifold2.jpg |
Nice Pic
You mean right in front of the exhaust manifold but slightly above? That looks like where it belongs. Thanks for all your help. By the way, beautiful header. In fact the whole build looks wonderful.
Scruff |
Ah, Got it
Just matced the TSRM pic to your photo and it matches perfectly...lines right up. At least I know it can be done now. Thanks Supra Girl.
Scruffboy |
hey supra you should let me have thatengine in the pic so i can umm... match it up with mine:D ill give it back when im through
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no problem scruff :D
and jeep....... no :p if you look in show n tell you'll find my build thread somewhere and you can see what she looks like at the mo ;) (still under build tho) |
Hey Supra Girl
Ain't ya worried about all the heat that's going to be thrown off by that thing? How do ya compensate for that. I was thinking of installing a header and a more opened intake, but I'm afraid of heat fryin the sh*t out of everything. I have an N/A so I would like somethin to up the horsies a little.
P.S. You were extremely helpful to me and I appreciate it. Scruffboy |
nahh not really... i figure.. if it does start heating other stuff up a bit too much then i'll do something about it lol, you could maybe put a couple of washers in your bonnet hinges to raise it a little to let some of the heat out if it is a problem
but i don't suspect it will be any more than what the stock manifold puts out & no problem, glad i could help :) |
Could always get the manifold ceramic coated and thermal taped if it's an issue.
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im gonna tape mine cause my old motor burnt some of the stuff up, and i dont want that to happen to this one...
how much did that header and turbo cost ya? im debating upgrading to a t4 or rebuilding the ct26 |
unless you have $2k spare don't bother changing the gte manifold & turbo as there is alot of other little work required to get it all running
exhaust reweld in stock 02 sensor into new downpipe oil feed and drain hoses and fittings for all the hoses new intake with plumback holes for isc, bov and pcv hoses new air filter (don't wanna damage that new turbo) block off water lines if your new turbo isn't watercooled (loop don't block) buy an external wastegate if the new turbo isn't internally gated if going external then welding in the dump tube to the exhaust so you don't fail your warrant check if your turbo is internal then getting a block off flange made for the external flange on the exhaust manifold (ideally getting it cut off and welded shut as close to the runners as possible i think that's pretty much it but you are in for a fair bit of work when going aftermarket turbo so... get that ct rebuilt and upgraded lol |
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