Tune Up

[scruffboy]

This spring (or sooner) I plan to do a tune-up on my 89 N/A. I was going to use MSD (or is it MCD) wires and Denso plugs (Platinum plugs, no way I'll pay $13 a piece for Iridium). Now I know I need to change the air filter, fuel filter and rotor. Is there anything else I should think about once I start getting to work on her. The car has 133,000 miles. I'd like to get another 133,000. I change the oil every 3 months. I bought it with 126,000 miles on it. I was told (on this forum) that my head gasket had probably been taken care of by the previous owner. How would I be able to tell? I would like to have the engine running as well as possible before I start making a few minor cosmetic repairs. One more thing. A mechanic had my car on the lift and said he noticed something wrong with the tranny seal. I had the clutch plate replaced about a month earlier. Wouldn't that guy have seen it? I am not leaking any fluids at all. Thanks in advance.

Scruffboy

[IHateHacks]

A proper tune-up consists of this-

Oil change
Coolant flush/change
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor (where applicable)
Check/set ignition timing
O2 sensor
Fuel filter
Air filter
Thermostat
Power steering fluid change
Transmission fluid change
Differential fluid change
Timing Belt, tensioner and tensioner spring
Check/adjust valve clearances
Compression test
Cooling system pressure test

I know that's alot of stuff, but it really doesn't take too long as long as you have all the right tools.

As far as the MSD wires, thats more of an upgrade than maintenance so thumbs up there. I'd use NGK iridium plugs, again more of an upgrade.

The truth is you CAN'T tell if the head gasket was replaced before unless you have a receipt. You CAN perform a compression test and cooling system pressure test (standard procedure during a complete tune-up), as well as a block test (not so standard procedure during a tune-up) to see if the head gasket is leaking. I'd highly advise you perform a block test if you want to have solid proof it is/is not blown. You need to have the coolant drained to perform a block test so it will go hand in hand with your full and proper tune-up.

Have fun!

[scruffboy]

I'm always fiddlin around with the car and have a lot of the stuff on your list checked off already. Got the O2 Sensor, Thermostat, air-filter, had to replace a broken coolant temp. sensor, then found a leak after the AFM and fixed that. Adjusted TPS and other minor things. Can you answer a question for me? What's the difference between the AFM (Air Flow Meter I assume?) and the MFA (or is it MAF)?

Thanks,

Scruffboy

P.S. The stupidest question is the one not asked.

[IHateHacks]

Air flow meter and Mass air flow meter. Same thing except the Mass is chopped off.

Now MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is different. If you have a MAF then you don't have a MAP.

[mrnickleye]

You don't drain the coolant to do a block test. You simply lower the level in the radiator about 2" to allow for some air clearance. A block test kit/tool is used to do the testing.

You can have a shop do it for a couple of $$. At my shop, we do it for free (and we don't even do headgasket jobs). We do it as a courtesy to the customer. If the test is positive, they are going to be spending a lot of $$$ (at some other shop).

We specialize in smog repairs, brakes, and regular maintenance work, intake gaskets, etc.

You can also find out if the headgasket is leaking combustion gasses into the cooling system by using an exhaust gas analyzer (smog test machine). We do that too. Quick and easy.

Nobody changes (although it would be a good thing) the O2 sensor during a tune up.

Nobody does a valve adjust on a 7m during a tune up. It is a seperate, and expensive job, And only should be done by a VERY competent mechanic with experience on this motor.

Timing belt is a seperate job, too.

A tune up is Ignition parts and settings, and fuel filter and adjustments. Not all that other stuff (hoses, thermostat, flushes etc).

Although, it a great thing to do those things on a regular basis.

A word of advice......(I've done this with every car since I could drive).......
Get a little pocket size notebook to keep in your glovebox. Record every thing you ever do to the car, date & mileage.

Keep all your receipts in a folder in the house.

If someone breaks into your car and steals the book, you still have records at home. (my dad's truck got broken into, and they grabbed everything in the glove box, which is where "HE" stored all his receipts. (bad idea)

MSD (multi spark discharge) wires are considered top of the line. I personally use NGK wires, and bought a length of MSD wire and connector ends and boots and made my own for the coil to cap wire.

I tried using the MSD ignition box w/tach adaptor, but could not get it to work smoothly. The Toyota coil is 'hot' enough, so I went back to stock. My car runs smooth as glass, with NO misfires under any condition.

[scruffboy]

I have been following your advice for some time now and it has really helped. I have all my repair, oil-change, brake job and other receipts in my house. I had everything logged in real nice on a computer spreadsheet but the P.C. crashed so I'll have to go through the receipts and try to rebuild it. How often should the O2 Sensor be changed? Mine is about 1 1/2 years old and seems OK. I am just thinking of doing the work this spring/summer as I have to go through inspection again winter of 07. Last time you got me through the emissions part with flying colors.

Scruffboy

[IHateHacks]

O2 sensor- every 60K miles.


Sorry I just saw that you said- "The car has 133,000 miles. I'd like to get another 133,000"

Well guess what? You are not going to get another 133,000 out of that car unless you A. Adjust the valve clearances (which any NON-professional can do, I'm proof of that) B. Replace timing belt it WILL break its not if its when, like 80 mph on the freeway (hint hint) and C. Do all the flushes like coolant, transmission, differential, power steering.

I know thats what "professionals" do (professional scam artists that are in it just for the MONEY they can care less about the vehicle) but this is your OWN vehicle. I really emphasize the coolant flush and doing it on a regular basis like every year. Screw what the maintainance schedule says. The more you replace it the better. I can see why you wouldn't be as anal as me with your inferior non-turbo (I wouldn't care that much about a non turbo, aka not worth the effort, time or money, either) but I like knowing my car is road-worthy.

[mrnickleye]

quote from scruffboy: Is there anything else I should think about once I start getting to work on her? The car has 133,000 miles.

Note to Ihatehacks: sorry about my confusion, I missed that question, and focused only on the term "tune-up".


quote (by me): A "tune-up" is Ignition parts and settings, and fuel filter and adjustments. Not all that other stuff (hoses, thermostat, flushes etc).

Although, it is a great thing to do those things on a regular basis.
............................................

So.....on the valve adjust...where did you get the shims needed. How did you do it, check them all, then buy only the ones you needed from the dealer??
Any SST used? (special service tool). Do you think a 'beginner' can do a valve adjust by himself at home with general hand tools???

Yep...60k t-belt changes are a must.

And for various reasons, (like switching 180* to 195* to 180* thermostats 2x a year), I always end up changing the coolant every year, although I recommend to customers to change it every 2 years.

AND another thing (as I see this every day at work)...budget it vital. Most people aren't prepared to spend a wad of $$$ on their car in one day. They have to spread out the repairs over a month or 2 or 3.

After reading this (and a couple of others) supra forums for 3 years, I conclude that the average owner is very $$$ budgeting conscience. And with good reason. These cars are 15-20 yrs old. Lots of maintenance and repairs are needed on most to get them into good, dependable condition.

Good maintenance is a must. That's why a posted a large sign at the customer counter that reads
"It's cheaper to maintain your vehicle than to repair it, ask me how".

And I posted a picture of an engine diagram with the timing belt, so people can see it, and understand that it is a required maintanance item. But, by the time you add in the belt, tensioner, water pump, bearings, coolant flush, and labor...they are looking at $400-$700, depending on the engine.

That's why, as a Supra owner, its very cost effective to do as much work on it as you can. Try to have a more experienced friend with you when you are starting out.