Tune Up

[scruffboy]

This spring (or sooner) I plan to do a tune-up on my 89 N/A. I was going to use MSD (or is it MCD) wires and Denso plugs (Platinum plugs, no way I'll pay $13 a piece for Iridium). Now I know I need to change the air filter, fuel filter and rotor. Is there anything else I should think about once I start getting to work on her. The car has 133,000 miles. I'd like to get another 133,000. I change the oil every 3 months. I bought it with 126,000 miles on it. I was told (on this forum) that my head gasket had probably been taken care of by the previous owner. How would I be able to tell? I would like to have the engine running as well as possible before I start making a few minor cosmetic repairs. One more thing. A mechanic had my car on the lift and said he noticed something wrong with the tranny seal. I had the clutch plate replaced about a month earlier. Wouldn't that guy have seen it? I am not leaking any fluids at all. Thanks in advance.

Scruffboy

[IHateHacks]

A proper tune-up consists of this-

Oil change
Coolant flush/change
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor (where applicable)
Check/set ignition timing
O2 sensor
Fuel filter
Air filter
Thermostat
Power steering fluid change
Transmission fluid change
Differential fluid change
Timing Belt, tensioner and tensioner spring
Check/adjust valve clearances
Compression test
Cooling system pressure test

I know that's alot of stuff, but it really doesn't take too long as long as you have all the right tools.

As far as the MSD wires, thats more of an upgrade than maintenance so thumbs up there. I'd use NGK iridium plugs, again more of an upgrade.

The truth is you CAN'T tell if the head gasket was replaced before unless you have a receipt. You CAN perform a compression test and cooling system pressure test (standard procedure during a complete tune-up), as well as a block test (not so standard procedure during a tune-up) to see if the head gasket is leaking. I'd highly advise you perform a block test if you want to have solid proof it is/is not blown. You need to have the coolant drained to perform a block test so it will go hand in hand with your full and proper tune-up.

Have fun!

[scruffboy]

I'm always fiddlin around with the car and have a lot of the stuff on your list checked off already. Got the O2 Sensor, Thermostat, air-filter, had to replace a broken coolant temp. sensor, then found a leak after the AFM and fixed that. Adjusted TPS and other minor things. Can you answer a question for me? What's the difference between the AFM (Air Flow Meter I assume?) and the MFA (or is it MAF)?

Thanks,

Scruffboy

P.S. The stupidest question is the one not asked.

[IHateHacks]

Air flow meter and Mass air flow meter. Same thing except the Mass is chopped off.

Now MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is different. If you have a MAF then you don't have a MAP.

[mrnickleye]

You don't drain the coolant to do a block test. You simply lower the level in the radiator about 2" to allow for some air clearance. A block test kit/tool is used to do the testing.

You can have a shop do it for a couple of $$. At my shop, we do it for free (and we don't even do headgasket jobs). We do it as a courtesy to the customer. If the test is positive, they are going to be spending a lot of $$$ (at some other shop).

We specialize in smog repairs, brakes, and regular maintenance work, intake gaskets, etc.

You can also find out if the headgasket is leaking combustion gasses into the cooling system by using an exhaust gas analyzer (smog test machine). We do that too. Quick and easy.

Nobody changes (although it would be a good thing) the O2 sensor during a tune up.

Nobody does a valve adjust on a 7m during a tune up. It is a seperate, and expensive job, And only should be done by a VERY competent mechanic with experience on this motor.

Timing belt is a seperate job, too.

A tune up is Ignition parts and settings, and fuel filter and adjustments. Not all that other stuff (hoses, thermostat, flushes etc).

Although, it a great thing to do those things on a regular basis.

A word of advice......(I've done this with every car since I could drive).......
Get a little pocket size notebook to keep in your glovebox. Record every thing you ever do to the car, date & mileage.

Keep all your receipts in a folder in the house.

If someone breaks into your car and steals the book, you still have records at home. (my dad's truck got broken into, and they grabbed everything in the glove box, which is where "HE" stored all his receipts. (bad idea)

MSD (multi spark discharge) wires are considered top of the line. I personally use NGK wires, and bought a length of MSD wire and connector ends and boots and made my own for the coil to cap wire.

I tried using the MSD ignition box w/tach adaptor, but could not get it to work smoothly. The Toyota coil is 'hot' enough, so I went back to stock. My car runs smooth as glass, with NO misfires under any condition.

[scruffboy]

I have been following your advice for some time now and it has really helped. I have all my repair, oil-change, brake job and other receipts in my house. I had everything logged in real nice on a computer spreadsheet but the P.C. crashed so I'll have to go through the receipts and try to rebuild it. How often should the O2 Sensor be changed? Mine is about 1 1/2 years old and seems OK. I am just thinking of doing the work this spring/summer as I have to go through inspection again winter of 07. Last time you got me through the emissions part with flying colors.

Scruffboy