More on Burping

[scruffboy]

Thanks for all the info folks. I have ramps, and I'd definitely rather do this in my driveway. I have questions. How does the air get into the system in the first place? I'll have to change the thermostat sometime down the line, can air get in when doing this and would putting it up on the ramps when I swap it out do any good? My thermo is in the upper range, 190o or so. Is this good or bad? Where would you drill a hole through the thermo and is that really recommended? I know I'm asking a lot here, but I got some conflicting info at the FAQ and want to get this all straightened out before I start, so I don't have to bug anyone with questions anymore.

Thanks,

Scruffboy

[ddmcse]

How does the air get into the system in the first place?

aahh ha !

[IHateHacks]

LOL Dan. Smart ass.

Scruffboy- I've swapped my thermostat 4 times in the 2 years i've owned my car and I never had a problem bleeding my coolant. I wouldn't drill a hole in my thermostat. I would use a 180 degree.

If air is getting into the system and you can not see any coolant leaking on the ground (leaking gasket or hose) or into the cabin (from a leaking heater core) then its coming from a leaking head gasket, and if thats the case, then the air in the system is laced with CO (carbon monoxide) which is what a block test kit is used for, detecting CO in the cooling system. I HIGHLY recommend performing a block test while you swap thermostats, the test kit is only $50 from NAPA, best $50 I've ever spent diagnosing my supra.

[mrnickleye]

Scruffboy, where in the FAQs section (which threads) is the conflicting info? I want to fix it so people don't get confused.

OK...I found it, in the 'overheating' thread.

Gasses get into the heater core due to a BHG.

Air gets into the heater core when the coolant level is allowed to drop in it. I suppose you could pinch the 2 heater hoses before you open the system, to prevent the coolant from coming out.

But I don't recommend this with old hoses, as it may cause them to leak later.

Also, the dangly thing on the thermostat can be snipped off before you put it into place. This will allow air to 'more easily' escape from the engine, and into the radiator, where it eventually will be pushed out into the coolant recovery bottle.

And....even opening up that hole by drilling it to 1/4" will NOT effect the operation of the thermostat, as it will still open and close normally, to allow the flow of coolant.

When your system is up to temp, the thermostat is wide open anyway.

Remember, the 7m motor (with a standard pump) does not flow much coolant at idle. AND...the fan does not draw much air at idle. I read many threads where the fellow says it gets hot at the stop light. Thats why I use an electric fan here in the desert.

I am mostly driving in town, with the A/C on, so I want lots of air thru the radiator at all those stops.