One more time, my air removal method.

mrnickleye · 04-19-2007, 04:25 AM

Where in the TSRM is the heater core???

What position does it sit in the case???

Tube inlet/outlet positions ???

I found this blowup in the TSRM parts catalog.

Which seems to show that air actually should NOT easily get trapped in the core.

Here is one from CSK (Checkers-Schucks-Kragen) parts stores.
Ready-Aire #398296 List is $96

Same part # here on Amazon for $53.
http://www.amazon.com/GDI-Proliance-.../dp/B000C89OMA

Same # here for $46.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...or=Heater+Core

Most online stores want $216. Crazy!

Monkey · 04-20-2007, 02:09 AM

The whole reason why i posted this thread is because it seems like a LOT of people are having problems with "gurgling" coming from their dash, which others have indicated as air trapped in the heater core. If this is true, my method would remedy that, because it works for ANY coolant system, EXCEPT the ones with a screw on type radiator fill bottle, like the newer Fords and Chevy's. My kit attatches to the top of the radiator on the fill neck. You fill it full of coolant until it's about a third of the way full in the funnel, and let it sit and gravity force air out of the block and coolant circulating system. Then , when it seems that there isn't any more bubbling air coming out, you crank up the car and turn on the defroster. When the air coming out of the dash vent is warm/hot, you know that the thermostat has opened and allowed all of the air to escape and coolant to fill the heater core. It's also a good indication when the level of the coolant drops in the fill funnel, as well. I just hate to see people get frustrated at doing such a simple task as bleeding the air out of the coolant system.

04-19-2007, 04:25 AM	#1
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	heater core Where in the TSRM is the heater core??? What position does it sit in the case??? Tube inlet/outlet positions ??? I found this blowup in the TSRM parts catalog. Which seems to show that air actually should NOT easily get trapped in the core. Here is one from CSK (Checkers-Schucks-Kragen) parts stores. Ready-Aire #398296 List is $96 Same part # here on Amazon for $53. http://www.amazon.com/GDI-Proliance-.../dp/B000C89OMA Same # here for $46. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...or=Heater+Core Most online stores want $216. Crazy! Attached Thumbnails __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. Last edited by mrnickleye; 04-19-2007 at 05:55 AM.

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04-20-2007, 02:09 AM	#2
Monkey 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Madison, MS. Posts: 51	The whole reason why i posted this thread is because it seems like a LOT of people are having problems with "gurgling" coming from their dash, which others have indicated as air trapped in the heater core. If this is true, my method would remedy that, because it works for ANY coolant system, EXCEPT the ones with a screw on type radiator fill bottle, like the newer Fords and Chevy's. My kit attatches to the top of the radiator on the fill neck. You fill it full of coolant until it's about a third of the way full in the funnel, and let it sit and gravity force air out of the block and coolant circulating system. Then , when it seems that there isn't any more bubbling air coming out, you crank up the car and turn on the defroster. When the air coming out of the dash vent is warm/hot, you know that the thermostat has opened and allowed all of the air to escape and coolant to fill the heater core. It's also a good indication when the level of the coolant drops in the fill funnel, as well. I just hate to see people get frustrated at doing such a simple task as bleeding the air out of the coolant system.