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#1 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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No, that pulley in back of the crankshaft pulley is the timing gear for the timing belt, I hope you didn't damage it while you were trying to stop the crank from moving.
The flywheel is on the back of the engine, where the transmission meets the engine block. Remove the starter and you will see a big wheel with teeth on it. Stick a prybar in the teeth and have a friend break the crank bolt loose. |
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#2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 52
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I really appreciate your HELP. I just have to ask because of my small garage and how difficult it is to get that starter out of the car. How easy will that come off, because so far that crank shaft bolt seems to be on really GOOD. I'm worried when i go through all of that work if it will be difficult to come off. is there any other method of getting that crank shaft bolt off such as renting a air compressor and air gun. Or will i still have to place a prybar to hold the flywheel in place?
p.s just waiting on your answer before diving under the car to work on it. thank you |
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#3 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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Don't bother with an air compressor. I tried 5 different impact guns even one rated at 120psi with a 150psi air compressor and still wasn't able to get the crankpulley bolt off. It's torqued to 195ft/lbs from the factory. I'm pretty sure you can take the 2 block to trans brackets and remove the plate that covers the flywheel so you can block it with a pry bar but thats under the car and will be a pain. If you remove the starter to access the flywheel teeth, you will have greater leverage. I did mine through the starter hole because I was doing a head gasket and had to take the starter out to remove the rear knock sensor connector so I could remove the harness that snakes through the intake manifold so I could remove the intake manifold. So it kinda worked out for me. If you are just trying to replace the timing belt and your upper intake manifold is still connected, then going through the starter hole will be a bitch. My whole intake manifold was off the head when I used the starter hole method. Either way, bottom line is you have to stop the flywheel from turning to remove that bolt. Good luck!
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#4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 52
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Is there a good thread with photos of what you're describing? I'm not exactly sure about what plate you're talking about. I can't seem to find it with a quick search, maybe my keywords are wrong?
Thanks! |
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#5 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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There's no threads on this site that have pictures of what I'm talking about. There's not many people that know how to remove a crank pulley on this site.
Those 2 brackets I'm talking about are under the car. They are bolted to the block right above the motor mounts near the rear of the oil pan. Remove those and the inspection cover/plate and you will see the teeth of the flywheel. |
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#6 |
AEM EMS
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 891
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From memory I think the bottom bell-housing inspection cover plate slips off when you remove the two bolts holding the brackets (each side) to the bell housing. I think you could explain the rest better than I could IHateHacks. Mine’s an auto tyranny, so no solid flywheel like the manual box.
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