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#1 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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Yep, Bill UK, that first picture shows one of the 2 brackets I am talking about. Remove those and the inspection plate comes off.
I do not recommend, nor do I use the starter bump method. I've seen more harm than good with that method. I've seen someone cook their starter trying that on a factory torqued crank bolt. The only time an impact gun or the starter bump method work are when the crank pulley bolt has been off before and wasn't torqued to factory specs. And another reason why I don't use impact guns or the starter bump method is this: Ok, lets say you DO get it off with the starter, how are you going to torque the crank bolt when it comes time to reassemble? Impact gun? HA, keep dreaming. That crank pulley will fall the fuck off if you don't torque it by hand to AT LEAST 150ft/lbs. Like I said before, the ONLY way to remove the crank pulley bolt is by holding the flywheel/flexplate teeth. That way, you can hold it while you torque it back on. |
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#2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 52
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Hello i used the starter method and it came RIGHT OFF. I've been working on my car since. i have new problem i made sure i was careful putting things back. after my timing belt replacment one of the belts is shacking it doesn't look like the crank shaft nor the other pulleys are wobbling. (funny) one of the belts is shacking. can anyone tell me if they know whats wrong.
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#3 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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What did you torque the crank bolt to?
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#4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 52
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195 as recommended. when putting it on the pulley i changed the casket and i didn't use the recommended tool to put the pulley back on. Should i retrace my steps and do it all over again? or will i have to replace the pulley and whatever else bends.
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