question on removing crank shaft

kidsusukigsxr · 06-23-2007, 06:20 PM

Hey can anyone tell me of other ways to remove the crank shaft pully.

I can't get anything into the flywheel to keep it from turning. i'm not even sure if thats the flywheel but i'm trying to grip the pully in the back of the crank shaft pully. i can't seem to keep it from moving.

Can anyone help?????????????? PLEASE.

IHateHacks · 06-24-2007, 03:10 AM

No, that pulley in back of the crankshaft pulley is the timing gear for the timing belt, I hope you didn't damage it while you were trying to stop the crank from moving.

The flywheel is on the back of the engine, where the transmission meets the engine block. Remove the starter and you will see a big wheel with teeth on it. Stick a prybar in the teeth and have a friend break the crank bolt loose.

kidsusukigsxr · 06-24-2007, 04:24 PM

I really appreciate your HELP. I just have to ask because of my small garage and how difficult it is to get that starter out of the car. How easy will that come off, because so far that crank shaft bolt seems to be on really GOOD. I'm worried when i go through all of that work if it will be difficult to come off. is there any other method of getting that crank shaft bolt off such as renting a air compressor and air gun. Or will i still have to place a prybar to hold the flywheel in place?

p.s just waiting on your answer before diving under the car to work on it.

thank you

IHateHacks · 06-24-2007, 10:37 PM

Don't bother with an air compressor. I tried 5 different impact guns even one rated at 120psi with a 150psi air compressor and still wasn't able to get the crankpulley bolt off. It's torqued to 195ft/lbs from the factory. I'm pretty sure you can take the 2 block to trans brackets and remove the plate that covers the flywheel so you can block it with a pry bar but thats under the car and will be a pain. If you remove the starter to access the flywheel teeth, you will have greater leverage. I did mine through the starter hole because I was doing a head gasket and had to take the starter out to remove the rear knock sensor connector so I could remove the harness that snakes through the intake manifold so I could remove the intake manifold. So it kinda worked out for me. If you are just trying to replace the timing belt and your upper intake manifold is still connected, then going through the starter hole will be a bitch. My whole intake manifold was off the head when I used the starter hole method. Either way, bottom line is you have to stop the flywheel from turning to remove that bolt. Good luck!

kidsusukigsxr · 06-25-2007, 12:26 AM

Is there a good thread with photos of what you're describing? I'm not exactly sure about what plate you're talking about. I can't seem to find it with a quick search, maybe my keywords are wrong?

Thanks!

IHateHacks · 06-25-2007, 12:44 AM

There's no threads on this site that have pictures of what I'm talking about. There's not many people that know how to remove a crank pulley on this site.

Those 2 brackets I'm talking about are under the car. They are bolted to the block right above the motor mounts near the rear of the oil pan. Remove those and the inspection cover/plate and you will see the teeth of the flywheel.

Bill UK · 06-26-2007, 10:19 PM

From memory I think the bottom bell-housing inspection cover plate slips off when you remove the two bolts holding the brackets (each side) to the bell housing. I think you could explain the rest better than I could IHateHacks. Mine’s an auto tyranny, so no solid flywheel like the manual box.

yota_head · 06-26-2007, 10:25 PM

did you get it off?

i use either a big impact gun, or my favorite for when you have no other choice and are stuck in the bush: put a breaker bar on the bolt, put the handle so it touches the frame, then crank the starter, it will come off.

Bill UK · 06-26-2007, 10:50 PM

I wouldn't like trying that yota_head with an auto tyranny, there's no solid flywheel only a thin metal plate with the starter gear ring on the out side, the torque converter bolts to the thin plate. Any distortion of the plate and the torque converter would run out of true.

IHateHacks · 06-27-2007, 12:51 AM

Yep, Bill UK, that first picture shows one of the 2 brackets I am talking about. Remove those and the inspection plate comes off.

I do not recommend, nor do I use the starter bump method. I've seen more harm than good with that method. I've seen someone cook their starter trying that on a factory torqued crank bolt. The only time an impact gun or the starter bump method work are when the crank pulley bolt has been off before and wasn't torqued to factory specs.

And another reason why I don't use impact guns or the starter bump method is this: Ok, lets say you DO get it off with the starter, how are you going to torque the crank bolt when it comes time to reassemble? Impact gun? HA, keep dreaming. That crank pulley will fall the fuck off if you don't torque it by hand to AT LEAST 150ft/lbs.

Like I said before, the ONLY way to remove the crank pulley bolt is by holding the flywheel/flexplate teeth. That way, you can hold it while you torque it back on.

06-23-2007, 06:20 PM	#1
kidsusukigsxr 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Orlando, Fl Posts: 52	question on removing crank shaft Hey can anyone tell me of other ways to remove the crank shaft pully. I can't get anything into the flywheel to keep it from turning. i'm not even sure if thats the flywheel but i'm trying to grip the pully in the back of the crank shaft pully. i can't seem to keep it from moving. Can anyone help?????????????? PLEASE.

06-24-2007, 04:24 PM	#3
kidsusukigsxr 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Orlando, Fl Posts: 52	Ok Got It I really appreciate your HELP. I just have to ask because of my small garage and how difficult it is to get that starter out of the car. How easy will that come off, because so far that crank shaft bolt seems to be on really GOOD. I'm worried when i go through all of that work if it will be difficult to come off. is there any other method of getting that crank shaft bolt off such as renting a air compressor and air gun. Or will i still have to place a prybar to hold the flywheel in place? p.s just waiting on your answer before diving under the car to work on it. thank you

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06-24-2007, 03:10 AM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	No, that pulley in back of the crankshaft pulley is the timing gear for the timing belt, I hope you didn't damage it while you were trying to stop the crank from moving. The flywheel is on the back of the engine, where the transmission meets the engine block. Remove the starter and you will see a big wheel with teeth on it. Stick a prybar in the teeth and have a friend break the crank bolt loose.

06-24-2007, 10:37 PM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Don't bother with an air compressor. I tried 5 different impact guns even one rated at 120psi with a 150psi air compressor and still wasn't able to get the crankpulley bolt off. It's torqued to 195ft/lbs from the factory. I'm pretty sure you can take the 2 block to trans brackets and remove the plate that covers the flywheel so you can block it with a pry bar but thats under the car and will be a pain. If you remove the starter to access the flywheel teeth, you will have greater leverage. I did mine through the starter hole because I was doing a head gasket and had to take the starter out to remove the rear knock sensor connector so I could remove the harness that snakes through the intake manifold so I could remove the intake manifold. So it kinda worked out for me. If you are just trying to replace the timing belt and your upper intake manifold is still connected, then going through the starter hole will be a bitch. My whole intake manifold was off the head when I used the starter hole method. Either way, bottom line is you have to stop the flywheel from turning to remove that bolt. Good luck!

06-25-2007, 12:26 AM	#5
kidsusukigsxr 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Orlando, Fl Posts: 52	Is there a good thread with photos of what you're describing? I'm not exactly sure about what plate you're talking about. I can't seem to find it with a quick search, maybe my keywords are wrong? Thanks!

06-25-2007, 12:44 AM	#6
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	There's no threads on this site that have pictures of what I'm talking about. There's not many people that know how to remove a crank pulley on this site. Those 2 brackets I'm talking about are under the car. They are bolted to the block right above the motor mounts near the rear of the oil pan. Remove those and the inspection cover/plate and you will see the teeth of the flywheel.

06-26-2007, 10:19 PM	#7
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	From memory I think the bottom bell-housing inspection cover plate slips off when you remove the two bolts holding the brackets (each side) to the bell housing. I think you could explain the rest better than I could IHateHacks. Mine’s an auto tyranny, so no solid flywheel like the manual box.

06-26-2007, 10:25 PM	#8
yota_head Stock Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: BC Posts: 12	did you get it off? i use either a big impact gun, or my favorite for when you have no other choice and are stuck in the bush: put a breaker bar on the bolt, put the handle so it touches the frame, then crank the starter, it will come off.

06-26-2007, 10:50 PM	#9
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I wouldn't like trying that yota_head with an auto tyranny, there's no solid flywheel only a thin metal plate with the starter gear ring on the out side, the torque converter bolts to the thin plate. Any distortion of the plate and the torque converter would run out of true.

06-27-2007, 12:51 AM	#10
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Yep, Bill UK, that first picture shows one of the 2 brackets I am talking about. Remove those and the inspection plate comes off. I do not recommend, nor do I use the starter bump method. I've seen more harm than good with that method. I've seen someone cook their starter trying that on a factory torqued crank bolt. The only time an impact gun or the starter bump method work are when the crank pulley bolt has been off before and wasn't torqued to factory specs. And another reason why I don't use impact guns or the starter bump method is this: Ok, lets say you DO get it off with the starter, how are you going to torque the crank bolt when it comes time to reassemble? Impact gun? HA, keep dreaming. That crank pulley will fall the fuck off if you don't torque it by hand to AT LEAST 150ft/lbs. Like I said before, the ONLY way to remove the crank pulley bolt is by holding the flywheel/flexplate teeth. That way, you can hold it while you torque it back on.