My MKIII

[DragonMKIII]

Try to answer most questions.

Headlights. Those HID's and control modules including ignighters came out from a 2005 mercedes sl600 that was rolled. Had a solenoid adapted to the inner shield of the projectors ( shield creates the low beam) so to lift it up and away enough to expose all the light thus high beams all in one projector. No need for a second hid exclusively for high beams. Freaks people out. And extremely bright hid's may I add. The picks were modded cuase the brightness was too extreme to capture nicely in a pic at night. Had to lower trhe exposure really low to see the hid's better. The high low so called hid conversions just don't work well enough and are questionable anyways. Brightness on those HID bulbs are sickly way too low.
Exhaust is a mix. Believe that one is hks dragger and before that it was a Skunk that looked the same but had a hell of a rasp/tinny sound. BTW OBX one day will make a good muffler but not today for sure. And from seeing it first hand, those cheap ebay off named ones hurts, not improves you cars performance, although may sound good. Running straight pipe sounds good too but.... 3" stainless plumbing up to OBX headers and beleive it or not, one of the best I have seen. The head flange is a monster in thickness at better than 1/2 inch. And machined perfect. No Cats.
Hood. Pay the extra and get it in carbon. Had to modify too much to make it stable. But as a heat exchanger it s the best.
1990 rear end w/ spoiler on a 1987 just because.
The driving lights below are not easy to mount. Get your torch, drills and bolts at the ready. Had to fabricate by eye so each side is built different. Got rid of the front bumper and went back to a modified stock look. Cleaner.
Haven't painted yet but did finally installed a 2.5 Twin TT with a healthy dose of head work and the proper ecu mapping done. Also at the same time a five speed conversion finally.
Wheel are perfect in offest and size I believe. Those are Sterns. Front 18x8.5 with 245/40/18 with offset of 32. The rears are 18x10 offset of 28 (monster lip) with 275/35/18 fitting just perfect. No rubs or rolling the fenders and no spacers..thank goodness

But here is the best and easiest way to do the lazy eye headlights. I know some went through great modification feats to achieve the look and have the headlight housing stay stable. This is what I did.
Take the motor out and remove the cover exposing the contact arms and copper rings the arms laydown on. Take note the locations of a gap located on the inner ring and another gap on the outter. The gap is where the contact arms loses it's conection, stopping in the up position and the other is the down. Reinstall the motors, then by hand adjust the lights to the hieghts you consider desirable. Half way or even lower look great. At this point remove again the motors. Notice now where the contact arms are located first for the up position which is past or before the origional gap. All you have to do is extend that gap to the direction of where the arms ended up at, either before or after. I superglued a thin piece of plastic for my extention piece. Now reinstall and lower. Check the other ring and do the same. Perfect up and down with no other cutting or modding to do except one. How to stabilize the housing so not to gitter bounce when driving. Buy an appropriate large spring and mount out of sight inside with some tension when closed. At the open position it will be rock solid adding little additional stress to the beefy motors. Not an issue at all.



Unbelievably simple if you think about it. I starred at those damn lights for a month or so before the light bulb came on in my head. It hurt back too! LOL!