Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics

IHateHacks · 12-28-2006, 07:59 PM

Then it looks like I'm using a stock gasket.

I was going to check both the block and the head with a straight edge myself and if they were not warped then I was just going to clean it up myself. If the head surface is bad then I was going to send it out to get machined. If the block surface is bad then I'm going to buy a JDM 7M from osaka.

I am buying ARP head bolts. TSRM says 58 ft-lbs but everyone here says that is too low. Any suggestion on torque specs with a stock gasket.

kwnate · 12-28-2006, 08:53 PM

The arp bolts will come with instructions, follow them for torque specs. Yes 58 is way too low.

IHateHacks · 12-29-2006, 12:47 AM

Just tried using a 1/2" IR titanium series impact and it still won't come off. This has got to be a joke. Tomarrow morning I'm using a 120psi (instead of 90psi) 750 ft/lbs rated impact gun. All of the other guns were rated up to 90psi max. If that doesn't work I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the SST's. I wasted too much time and effort trying to save a few bucks.

Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt?

And don't gimme the put in gear ebrake on stand on the brakes either because yea that doesn't work at all. Crank still spins.

rnoswal · 12-29-2006, 04:56 PM

Well, since you have the head off, I'd put a top dead center detector on the engine, then put a short 2x2 (wood) in the cylinder and turn it until the piston pushes the piece of wood up to the detector and that will stop it from moving. Then just keep applying pressure until the bolt comes loose.

Good luck

Russ

Staceman · 12-29-2006, 06:28 PM

Find someone with a 1/2" ELECTRIC impact. (not the 12Volt kind either) May sound foolish, but that was the ONLY way to remove a stripped/cross threaded harmonic balancer bolt from the kid's V6 Rodeo!

Since I "inherited" a 1/2 electric impact, I don't even use the air one anymore.

IHateHacks · 12-29-2006, 08:45 PM

Well I finally got the crank bolt off. To anyone that wants to know how to do it I will tell you. First though, I would like to say what did not do it. 5 different impact guns-nope. Car in gear, ebrake on, someone standing on the brakes-nope. Did not get the chance to use the starter bump method. This is what works and what will work every single time-crowbar in the flywheel through the starter hole. Worked so good I think Im going to patent that procedure. Walked the crank pulley off with 2 flathead screw drivers. Had timing belt off in less than 5 minutes after that. I was messing with this crank bolt for 4 days, but now that its off the head is ready to be lifted off. I just don't have someone to help me lift it. I can do it myself, I bench over 205lbs atm, I just don't want to risk banging it into something like the radiator support or the fender. Loosened head bolts in the order shown in the TSRM and did it in 3 passes. Did not need the SST for the head bolts, a NAPA 10mm allen head socket worked just fine for $4.65. Will have pictures in 2 hours.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Edit: And yea Toyota of Wallingford (yet again) sucks bad. Walked into the parts department, asked if they could get SST's and all I got was a bunch of BS. First I got "No, nope." Then I got, "AHHH Toyota is closed today I can't do anything." Then it was, "They are so much money you won't want to buy them" Then I got, "Gimme your name and number and I'll get back to you" Yeah right. Does anyone else have a problem with buying SST's from their dealership?

IHateHacks · 12-30-2006, 12:06 AM

I've decided to send the head to a machine shop. I've gone this far I might as well go all the way. Cylinder walls still have crosshatch marks on them so it is a safe bet that this engine was rebuilt at some time. I've also determined my BHG was in cylinder 6. Spark plug insulator in cyl 6 was brown. All of the other spark plugs were normal. All of the valves looked the same in cylinders 1-5, cylinder 6 looked totally different. If you look closely at the last picture of the head gasket, look at the last cylinder to the right and look at the top, it is oval shaped. So it is determined that when this engine was rebuilt the HACK that put it back together hacked it up. Either overtorqued or did not torque in the right sequence.

dcrusupra · 02-17-2007, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the driver

what a piece of crap just like the owner

I'm sorry, I don't quite understand....who was that post to?

mrnickleye · 02-17-2007, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcrusupra

I'm sorry, I don't quite understand....who was that post to?

Don't feel bad. 'The Driver' has offered some decent info/help over the past week or 2.

perhaps he had a 'bad day'.

But, perhaps with this next week off, he'll do some reflecting, and recover.

yama1 · 04-07-2007, 02:44 PM

Dude, I had the same problem

No help really with tool support. The impacts don't work.

I ended up pulling the starter and wedging one of my long pry bars in the teeth to hold the crank. Granted I had the motor out at the time so it was easier.
Just use a 1/2" 19mm with a long bar and it will break loose pretty easily. The flywheel is much larger, so the torque on the tooth is not a real issue, but be sure you have good surface contact and not a point load.

Hope this helps out.

No need for the SST, Waste of money.

12-28-2006, 08:53 PM	#2
kwnate SP58GT Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: USA Posts: 633	The arp bolts will come with instructions, follow them for torque specs. Yes 58 is way too low. __________________ Nate

12-29-2006, 12:47 AM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Just tried using a 1/2" IR titanium series impact and it still won't come off. This has got to be a joke. Tomarrow morning I'm using a 120psi (instead of 90psi) 750 ft/lbs rated impact gun. All of the other guns were rated up to 90psi max. If that doesn't work I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the SST's. I wasted too much time and effort trying to save a few bucks. Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt? And don't gimme the put in gear ebrake on stand on the brakes either because yea that doesn't work at all. Crank still spins. Last edited by IHateHacks; 12-29-2006 at 01:22 AM.

12-29-2006, 08:45 PM	#6
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Well I finally got the crank bolt off. To anyone that wants to know how to do it I will tell you. First though, I would like to say what did not do it. 5 different impact guns-nope. Car in gear, ebrake on, someone standing on the brakes-nope. Did not get the chance to use the starter bump method. This is what works and what will work every single time-crowbar in the flywheel through the starter hole. Worked so good I think Im going to patent that procedure. Walked the crank pulley off with 2 flathead screw drivers. Had timing belt off in less than 5 minutes after that. I was messing with this crank bolt for 4 days, but now that its off the head is ready to be lifted off. I just don't have someone to help me lift it. I can do it myself, I bench over 205lbs atm, I just don't want to risk banging it into something like the radiator support or the fender. Loosened head bolts in the order shown in the TSRM and did it in 3 passes. Did not need the SST for the head bolts, a NAPA 10mm allen head socket worked just fine for $4.65. Will have pictures in 2 hours. Thanks for all the suggestions. Edit: And yea Toyota of Wallingford (yet again) sucks bad. Walked into the parts department, asked if they could get SST's and all I got was a bunch of BS. First I got "No, nope." Then I got, "AHHH Toyota is closed today I can't do anything." Then it was, "They are so much money you won't want to buy them" Then I got, "Gimme your name and number and I'll get back to you" Yeah right. Does anyone else have a problem with buying SST's from their dealership? Last edited by IHateHacks; 12-29-2006 at 08:52 PM.

04-07-2007, 02:44 PM	#10
yama1 Stock Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NEWNAN Posts: 5	crank pulley removal Dude, I had the same problem No help really with tool support. The impacts don't work. I ended up pulling the starter and wedging one of my long pry bars in the teeth to hold the crank. Granted I had the motor out at the time so it was easier. Just use a 1/2" 19mm with a long bar and it will break loose pretty easily. The flywheel is much larger, so the torque on the tooth is not a real issue, but be sure you have good surface contact and not a point load. Hope this helps out. No need for the SST, Waste of money.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Blown Head Gasket Symptoms!	Dejvid1785	MKIII FAQ	76	04-24-2011 07:59 PM
Blown Head Gasket Snake Oil	unkymurch	Non-Generation Specific Questions	21	08-06-2010 02:11 AM
1989 Supra blown head gasket	rayk5799	Non-Generation Specific Questions	6	05-18-2009 10:51 AM
Update: Blown Head Gasket Snake Oil - 8 months later	unkymurch	Non-Generation Specific Questions	3	12-17-2008 09:35 PM
Head gasket repair	Kuban	MKIII Supra	9	07-20-2007 09:01 PM

12-28-2006, 07:59 PM	#1
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Then it looks like I'm using a stock gasket. I was going to check both the block and the head with a straight edge myself and if they were not warped then I was just going to clean it up myself. If the head surface is bad then I was going to send it out to get machined. If the block surface is bad then I'm going to buy a JDM 7M from osaka. I am buying ARP head bolts. TSRM says 58 ft-lbs but everyone here says that is too low. Any suggestion on torque specs with a stock gasket.

12-29-2006, 04:56 PM	#4
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Well, since you have the head off, I'd put a top dead center detector on the engine, then put a short 2x2 (wood) in the cylinder and turn it until the piston pushes the piece of wood up to the detector and that will stop it from moving. Then just keep applying pressure until the bolt comes loose. Good luck Russ

12-29-2006, 06:28 PM	#5
Staceman Intake Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Phoenix, Az. Posts: 48	Find someone with a 1/2" ELECTRIC impact. (not the 12Volt kind either) May sound foolish, but that was the ONLY way to remove a stripped/cross threaded harmonic balancer bolt from the kid's V6 Rodeo! Since I "inherited" a 1/2 electric impact, I don't even use the air one anymore.

12-30-2006, 12:06 AM	#7
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	I've decided to send the head to a machine shop. I've gone this far I might as well go all the way. Cylinder walls still have crosshatch marks on them so it is a safe bet that this engine was rebuilt at some time. I've also determined my BHG was in cylinder 6. Spark plug insulator in cyl 6 was brown. All of the other spark plugs were normal. All of the valves looked the same in cylinders 1-5, cylinder 6 looked totally different. If you look closely at the last picture of the head gasket, look at the last cylinder to the right and look at the top, it is oval shaped. So it is determined that when this engine was rebuilt the HACK that put it back together hacked it up. Either overtorqued or did not torque in the right sequence.