Tie Rods

[dcrusupra]

I think i have messed up tie rods. The front end of my car starts bumping violently every once and a while and i can only get it to stop if i turn the wheel left or right a little. And if i have my windows open i can hear a clang if i hit a bump or a rough spot in the road. Now ive called a few places and the cheapest price to get it replaced it $75 for a whole new setup and labor. I just want to make sure its the tie rods. Thank u

[Troyota]

it's a pretty decent possiblility...I'd take it to the shop and have a mechanic inspect it...a reputable shop won't charge you a diagnostic if you have them perform the repair...if you don't trust yourself to get under there and start wiggling things around to figure it out yourself I'd go this route.

[Poodles]

Tie rods or the rack itself could be going out. That's kinda high, you could do it yourself, mark the ends so you know where the old ones where, pop the old ones off, put the new ones on, and drive it directly to an alingment shop...

Could be tie rods, rack, ball joints....pop it up on a jack and start wiggling, don't pay someone else to do that for yah, if you have a repair manual, it will show you how to check all that stuff easy.

[mrnickleye]

Other bushings and the lower ball joints are more suspect than tie rods.
To check the tie rods, take a BIG pair of channel locks (any cheapy will do, and good to keep in the toolbox), now open them up enough to clamp them dowm on the joint, top and bottom. Give them a squeeze. The tie rod ends are just a ball in a socket, with a spring washer to keep it tight. There should only be a tiny bit of play in the joint. If you can squeeze the joint (on and off with the pliers) and move it a 'noticable amount' (like 1/4"), then it is bad.
You can EASILY replace them. ($$ cheap $$) Do both !!

Get a tie rod end size 'pickle fork' from a parts/tool store (some let you borrow tools) and a hammer. Take the cotter pin and nut off, then use the fork & hammer to break the end loose from the wheel mount. The part is tapered in the hole, it will 'pop' loose.
NOTE...this will basically ruin the old part.

Loosen the jamnut on the p/s rack, and unscrew the end from the rack. Count the threads from the old part, end to where it stopped going into the rack.

Count they same # of threads on the new part and mark with pen or crayon. Screw new part into rack same # of threads as old part.

Install onto wheel mount portion, and tighten nut to spec (tight, but not broken, Mr. Muscles), install cotter pin. Tighten jamnut on rack.

You will be close enough to original alignment for now.

Drive around to listen for further noises and shakes.

[joel w]

balljoint i bet.. mine were way bad at 140k miles