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Old 01-29-2007, 11:09 PM   #1
mattfurlani
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Exclamation Somebody help me with my car!!!! calling all smart people

I have two problems, I need the expert suggestions of a professional engine diagnoser. if you are a mochanic or a parts replacer or someone who has worked very little on supras please don't waste my time. i have very little money and can't be spending any more than needed on this car.

1. air will not come out of brake systems. Have changed master cylinder which was pre bench bled before installation. new calipers and new hoses. new pads as well. rotors are fine (not important maybe?). I'VE bled it more times then there are hours in a day and still has rediculously spongy feel. no visible leaks or liquid coming out. front left caliper makes clicking noise when brakes are engaged. TOtally clueless. HELP!

2. engine voilently idles. it is a raising and dropping between 2000 and 2600 and will not go down to 800. checked tps sensor, idle screw, vacuum lines. EGR functions, EGRVM works. dash pot works. It is missing the Charcoal canister and BVSV from thermostat but lines to those are plugged. they may not be sufficiently plugged. We've secluded it to a air or fuel intake unaccounted for after the computer has recontrolled the condition. MAy this have to do with the O2 sensor? again with the cluelessness.


Also if anyone knows of the location of the PCV on this car i'd greatly appreciate it.
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:20 PM   #2
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Have you ran a diagnostic test on your 7MGE yet?

To run a diagnostic test you must bridge terminals T and E1 of the diagnostic check connector.

7M engines do not have a PCV valve. They have a PCV system that originates from the middle of the cam covers (those 2 short hoses connecting to the metal pipe, which is the PCV pipe). On a 7MGE the PCV pipe connects to the throttle body. That is your PCV.

Last edited by IHateHacks; 01-29-2007 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:36 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
Have you ran a diagnostic test on your 7MGE yet?

To run a diagnostic test you must bridge terminals T and E1 of the diagnostic check connector.

7M engines do not have a PCV valve. They have a PCV system that originates from the middle of the cam covers (those 2 short hoses connecting to the metal pipe, which is the PCV pipe). On a 7MGE the PCV pipe connects to the throttle body. That is your PCV.
no i haven't and that's kinda ghetto..
what do you mean by bridge terminals t and e1?
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:49 PM   #4
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do the "ghetto" diagnostic and let your car tell you what is wrong with it...

it might seem ghetto, but its how it is done..

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
How many calipers did you bleed? Just the one you replaced? Well I got news for you, you must bleed all the calipers and in a specific order. You can have someone else tell you that info.
bleed the calipers in order from furthest away to closest to your master cylinder
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:32 AM   #6
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why are pple making a fool themselves in the forums today

i was looking earlier at nate and supramans funny ass posts
and now this guys asks for help , then decides to insult pple

what the hell is going on today
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Old 01-30-2007, 03:44 PM   #7
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Question

Oh i know diagnostics help but OBD I tells you where the problem is and not what the problem is and i was refering to the lack of PCV as ghetto. I don't have acess to an OBD I machine and i'm not going to buy one. (no $$$) Where i come from its not an insult to call something ghetto. Its just calling it jury-rigged or a similar phrase. Not trying to insult anyone who's from a ghetto. It makes sense, but instead of releiving the pressure with a valve its just kinda floating it back into the intake. It would seem better to have a one way valve on it.

I know that the problem is a unaccoutned air or fuel intake. it can start happening the instant you start the motor. I changed the vacuum lines. I don't think the lack of Charcoal canister could effect the idle but maybe i should make sure my plugs are solid.

And I know about the bench bleeding the master cylinder and starting with the caliper the farthest away from it. We've done everything you guys have mentioned i just know i'm getting the mechanics block and just getting frustrated and not thinking about it. I figured there has to be someone who knows what i'm overlooking.

Beleive me I don't have time to be insulting anyone. Sorry I chose poor words to describe my thoughts. I hope nobody lost sleep or cried about it (note the sarcasm) I'm not sure i know anyone who lives in a ghetto in OH... maybe CT I seem to remember driving through Hartford a few times
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
"no i haven't and that's kinda ghetto.. "

Then I guess the TSRM is ghetto. Yeah, thats the DEALER repair manual. Good luck buying a code scanner for an OBD I Toyota, Mr. Non-ghetto.

Clicking front caliper? Now thats ghetto. Still got air in the lines? Then you my friend are a HACK. How many calipers did you bleed? Just the one you replaced? Well I got news for you, you must bleed all the calipers and in a specific order. You can have someone else tell you that info.

I couldn't have said it better my self "TOtally clueless."
I replaced all 4 calipers, brake hose, pads (probably not so important), the two rear brake lines coming from the t junction because the fluid was rusty and milky (we verified that the rust was coming from those lines by a good visual inspection, and the master cylinder.

I bled from right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and bench bled the master cylinder before installing it. Now the liquid is clear but their is still air somewhere. The vacuum booster functions normally.

I dunno what's up with the clicking front caliper. Tehy are rebuilds so maybe its a faulty.
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:18 PM   #9
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Please dont make me clean up anymore threads, Im far to lazy for that. Take it easy on each other. Ive heard people calling things that seem to be a temporary fix, ghetto.

Back on topic, it could very well be a faulty reman. caliper. Take it back and get a new one. Or you might have left your brain somewhere else and did what I did. I forgot to put the pad holders into the caliper so it made clicking noises when the brakes engaged.
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcrusupra
Please dont make me clean up anymore threads, Im far to lazy for that. Take it easy on each other. Ive heard people calling things that seem to be a temporary fix, ghetto.

Back on topic, it could very well be a faulty reman. caliper. Take it back and get a new one. Or you might have left your brain somewhere else and did what I did. I forgot to put the pad holders into the caliper so it made clicking noises when the brakes engaged.
Yeah, I dunno these guys seem to ahve taken what i said the wrong way. I come from a place where people are hard on each other and racism is something we joke about.

I'll have to look into the brake pad thing because the other side has the same problem but the clips weren't on right. Its sucks being in a 25F shop for 5 hours and thinking straight. your painfully numb hands and feet are distracting.

I go to College for automotive repair and i'm kinda new to understanding things so I was just looking for some help.

I'm sure people will get over it
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